Winds, Services, Canoes, Caribou, and Finding Peace at the Beach

Sun, Sep 1

A group of elderly Naskapi people sit on a wooden porch outside a log cabin. Some are sitting quietly with their heads bowed, while a man stands by the door leaning on the railing. Above them, a small hand-made sign reads "Kitty Peast." The bright sunlight highlights the wood of the cabin and the gathering on the porch.

Inside a wooden cabin, a group of Naskapi people gather for a church service. Several elderly individuals sit on benches and chairs, holding hymn books or prayer guides. Two men stand reading from books, while the rest of the group listens or follows along in their seats. The room has simple wooden walls and a plaid fabric covers one of the windows.

This morning, I was greeted by an unusual sight. Many Naskapi people were crowded into Kitty Peastitute’s cabin, having a church service, while the big tent sat mostly empty. Some kind of disagreement had happened, and instead of a unified service, there were two separate ones.

An elderly man in a traditional black jacket with beige trim sits inside a large tent, gazing thoughtfully at a display. Behind him, historical posters are mounted on the wall, and stacks of folded metal chairs rest nearby. The tent has a spacious, well-lit interior with other people in the background.

Inside a large tent filled with rows of chairs, a crowd of people attends a church service. At the front, there’s a decorated stage with a banner that reads "Kwe," alongside a podium. The service includes elements of indigenous culture, with banners and symbols visible on the walls.

Since the services were held an hour apart, many Naskapi people simply attended both. It was an interesting way to handle the split, and it worked.

A man and a woman sit side by side inside the tent, viewed from behind. The man wraps his arm around the woman's shoulders, comforting her as they sit close together. The scene focuses on their intimate moment as they attend the service with others seated in the background.

The Innu service had some beautiful singing, and at one point, I saw a husband comforting his wife as she began to cry from the emotion of the music.

A close-up view of rocky ground covered in moss, lichens, and small shrubs with red and green leaves. Among the plants, a large rock is central to the image, blending into the earthy, natural surroundings. The colors of the foliage hint at early autumn, with a mix of muted greens, yellows, and reds.

A calm lake under an overcast sky with dark, thick clouds. The lake is surrounded by dense coniferous forest, and the shoreline curves gently with trees stretching out towards the water. The scene is quiet and serene, with a feeling of stillness.

After attending both services, I went out into the woods for my own church. I thought about forest fires and rebirth, how even the rockiest, stoniest terrain can eventually transform into a beautiful paradise with care and love. It was a quiet, thoughtful moment in the midst of all the activity.

A man wearing a cap and jacket sweeps the wooden floor inside a large tent with a long broom. Behind him, there is a tall wooden signpost with distances to various indigenous communities written on it, such as "Matimekush 16 km" and "Sheshatshiu 473 km." The space is set up for an event, with equipment and decorations visible around the stage area.

A man mops the floor in a large kitchen area set up in a tent. The space is filled with shelves of supplies, pots, and cooking equipment, with a banner in the background that reads "Kawawachikamach." He is smiling as he works, surrounded by the organized yet busy setting.

There are so many people working behind the scenes at the Elders Gathering—cooking food for the workers, hauling trash, emptying toilets, sweeping floors, and delivering water. Some of them feel embarrassed about their roles, thinking they are less desirable, but in reality, they are the true heroes of this gathering. Their efforts keep everything running smoothly, and their contributions are invaluable.

A woman stands on a gravel surface next to a collapsed tent covered in a blue tarp, giving a peace sign with her hand. In the background, another person is working near other tents made of wood and tarps, set up near a river. The sky is cloudy and dark, with strong winds affecting the camp setup.

The wind really picked up today, and it wasn’t long before one of the first tents set up on the site was lifted into the air and smashed onto another tent. I helped untangle it, and the owners took it in stride, joking, “That’s why the elders tell us to put the door facing east!” (Away from the prevailing winds).

Inside a large, low-built kitchen tent, elders sit at long tables covered with bingo cards and markers. The room is filled with the sound of conversations and laughter as the group enjoys playing bingo, sipping tea, and coffee. The wooden frame of the tent is visible, and there is a wood stove with logs stacked nearby, contributing to the cozy, communal atmosphere.

I visited another kitchen tent today, a low-built one belonging to the Innu Takuaikan Uashat mak Mani-utenam. It was a beautiful structure, filled with elders playing bingo, joking around, and sipping on tea and coffee.

A group of children stands in a circle on a gravel surface, tossing a volleyball back and forth between tents. A blue teepee and various makeshift structures are visible in the background, with a cloudy sky overhead hinting at an approaching storm. The children seem undeterred by the weather, continuing their game.

A wider view of the children playing volleyball at the camp, with more tents and a trailer visible in the background. The children are engaged in the game, with the volleyball suspended mid-air. The cloudy, stormy sky looms above the camp, but the kids remain focused on their game.

Another shot of the children’s volleyball game, showing the ball in play as it moves between the kids. Tents and portable restrooms are visible in the background, and the sky remains dark with storm clouds, though the children are undeterred.

A close-up of the volleyball in mid-air as the children continue playing in the open area between tents. The game takes place in a rustic campsite, with the storm clouds in the background adding a dramatic touch to the scene.

Even though storms were on the horizon, the kids didn’t let it dampen their fun. From different villages, they set up a volleyball circle between the Natuashish and Naskapi Nation sections of the camp.

A large white canvas tent with a small cross at the top sits on rocky ground, with a metal stovepipe protruding from one side. A black chair and a log stump are positioned outside the entrance, and the tent is surrounded by sparse trees and cloudy skies in the background, giving a rustic, camp-like feel.

A row of white canvas tents, each with metal stovepipes sticking out at different angles, lines a gravel path in a forested camp. Some tents have unique decorations, such as a Batman-themed tarp, while others have plain coverings. A red picnic table is visible on the path, under the overcast sky.

I love seeing the different nations come together and interact, and it’s fascinating how each community builds their tents slightly differently. The Natuashish people put crosses on their tents, like Naskapi homes, and many Sheshatshiu people have stove pipes coming out the front of their tents rather than the top.

A woman wearing a gray hoodie is seated in a kitchen tent, manually shredding cabbage using a hand-cranked shredder. She is focused on her task, with gloves on, and the shredded cabbage falls onto a tray in front of her. The tent’s shelves behind her are stocked with supplies, and a banner reading "Kawawachikamach" hangs above.

A group of children sits at a long table covered with a plastic tablecloth inside a kitchen tent, sheltering from the rain. They give thumbs-up to the camera, wearing hoodies and caps. Despite the rainy weather, they appear cheerful, with food and snacks in the background, while the camp outside can be seen through the tent windows.

The heavy rains eventually came, drenching the campsite, but the kids just took shelter in the kitchen tents. Thanks to the amazing work of the Naskapi crews laying solid foundations, there was no flooding, and surprisingly little mud.

I spent the rest of the evening filming the music in the bif tent. After the music died down, I went back to my tent and tried to start a fire with some rather wet firewood (my own fault for not drying it out properly). The wind whipped around, and the rain beat on the roof, but I was safe, warm, and dry in my tent. And at the end of the day, that’s all that matters.

Mon, Sep 2

A row of canvas tents set up in a campsite, with smoke rising from campfires. The tents are surrounded by a forest of tall evergreen trees. Above the tents, the sky begins to clear, with bright blue patches breaking through the lingering storm clouds. The ground is wet from recent rain, but the sun is starting to shine, bringing a calm after the storm.

The sun finally broke through the clouds this morning, chasing away the storm and rain from the past few days. It was wonderful to sleep through the sound of rain, though I know I’m still not getting enough rest.

A metal pot filled with leaves, placed on a red portable gas stove. The pot is marked with the letters "NNK" and is simmering on the stove, preparing ᐃᐦᑕ (traditional medicinal Labrador tea). The kitchen in the background is stocked with supplies, and the tea is likely being prepared for its healing properties, particularly as many people in the camp have been coughing.

A big pot of ᐃᐦᑕ was boiling in the kitchen. I drank some, just in case. Many people at the camp have been coughing, and while I haven’t caught anything yet, I’m hoping it stays that way.

I’ve never been to a daily morning mass before, but I’m finding it quiet and meditative.

A woman wearing a green hoodie speaks into a microphone. Behind her, there is a directional signpost with various distances listed, as well as decorations and a banner. She appears focused, contributing to the conversation.

An elder man in a blue camouflage hoodie speaks into a microphone. Behind him, drums and banners are visible, setting the scene of a formal discussion or panel at a community gathering.

An elder man wearing glasses and a camouflage jacket speaks into a microphone during a discussion. He is seated at a table with a disposable cup in front of him and wears a hat adorned with a medicine wheel symbol and a patterned band. The background shows a stage with drums and banners.

An elder woman with a green fleece jacket and a colorful headscarf speaks into a microphone. She sits at a discussion table with her hands clasped around the microphone. In the background, there are drums and a banner, creating an atmosphere of a community gathering.

Next, we had a session on caribou. Caribou are not doing well on the Quebec and Labrador Peninsula, so the discussion focused on strategies to help them thrive again. The challenges they face are real, and it’s clear that their survival is deeply tied to the land and traditions of the people here.

After lunch, I went back to Kawawachikamach for a much-needed shower. It’s incredible how a simple shower can revive me and make me feel human again.

A group of people stand together on the shore of a lake, bundled up in warm jackets and coats. The cloudy sky looms above, and the lake reflects the gray light of the day. In the foreground, a burned pile of wood is visible on the ground.

A group of people, some pointing and others looking on, stand by the lake. The sky is overcast, and a colorful variety of jackets and coats brighten the scene.

Two canoes, each with two paddlers, move across the water on a cloudy day. The water ripples in the wind, and the paddlers appear determined as they make their way towards the shore.

I then headed to Knob Lake Beach, where several dozen people were already cheering and honking their horns as paddlers came ashore.

Three people in a red canoe, paddling on a lake. One person is raising their paddle in celebration while another looks at the camera. The backdrop features a cloudy sky and a forested shoreline.

Two individuals embracing joyfully by the shore, with one man in a bright orange jacket and the other in a green jacket and hat. They are next to a red canoe, on a cloudy day with a lake in the background.

Two people hugging, one in a green jacket and the other in an orange jacket, beside a red canoe on a rocky shore. They are smiling and looking at each other with a lake and cloudy skies in the background.

A festive scene beside a red canoe with several people embracing and celebrating. An adult is hugging a child, while others around them appear joyful. The setting includes a cloudy sky and a lake in the background.

These paddlers had been out on the water since August 15, paddling over 300 kilometers in 19 days!

A person in a green rain jacket and black beanie carefully handling a red canoe on the shore of a lake. The canoe is positioned upside down on the rocky beach, and the surroundings include bushes and a cloudy sky.

A man in a blue jacket with a red life vest holds a paddle and smiles while standing beside a lake. A canoe and small group can be seen in the background on the water, while children stand nearby on the shore.

A group of people gathered at the lake's edge, including two individuals hugging with one holding a wooden paddle. Canoes rest on the shore as others engage in conversation and sip drinks. The sky is cloudy, with trees and water in the background.

Several people work together to carry a large red canoe up a slight incline, while others gather nearby in small groups. The scene is set by the lake with a cloudy sky, and the group wears a mix of outdoor gear for the occasion.

The group, made up of Naskapi and Innu people, kept the tradition of using canoes alive—a mode of transportation that their ancestors once relied on.

Two people share a warm embrace, one in a bright orange jacket and the other in a black coat. Others gather nearby, with trees and cloudy skies in the background as the community celebrates by the lakeshore.

Two women standing side by side, smiling at the camera. One wears a black hoodie and red plaid skirt, while the other wears a colorful headscarf and a blue life vest, holding a cup of coffee. A red canoe and more people are visible in the background.

An emotional close-up of two individuals embracing by the lake. The person in a purple bandana and blue jacket closes their eyes in the hug, with other people standing near the water in the background.

A smiling woman in a black rain jacket and blue life vest holds a cup of hot coffee while walking with a child beside her. They are part of a larger gathering by the lake, with canoes and other people in the background.

Despite the perils they faced—wildlife, accidents, and rough waters—the smiles on their faces as they were greeted with warm hugs and hot coffee said everything. It was such a joyful and proud moment for all the communities involved.

An expansive rainbow arcs across the sky above a line of treetops after a rainstorm. The dark clouds contrast with the vibrant colors of the rainbow, creating a serene and peaceful moment in nature.

On my way back to camp, a sudden rainstorm blew through, followed by a gigantic rainbow. It felt like a reminder that I needed a break.

Gentle waves roll onto a rocky shore under a sky filled with scattered clouds. The horizon is lined with a dark forest, and the bright blue sky contrasts with the moody clouds above the calm lake.

So, I stopped at the beach.

A close-up view of variously shaped and colored pebbles on a beach. The stones range from smooth, rounded pebbles to flat, weathered pieces in earthy tones of brown, gray, and beige.

A man with a gray beard and wearing a black cap stands by a lakeshore. Behind him, the calm water and forested horizon stretch out under a partly cloudy sky, capturing the serene beauty of the natural setting.

I’ve been working non-stop since I arrived—up with the sun, staying up late into the night, fighting with the internet to upload stories, photos, and videos. But the beach is one of my favorite places in this whole area, and it helped me relax

An overhead view of a variety of smooth, flat stones on a beach, ranging from light beige to dark brown and gray. Several large rocks are mixed among smaller, rounded pebbles.

A close-up of a collection of thin, flat, overlapping stones, arranged in intricate natural patterns. The stones vary in shades of brown and gray, with a few large rocks interspersed.

The sun breaks through clouds over a peaceful lake, reflecting on the water’s surface. The scene is framed by a dark forested shoreline, with gentle waves lapping against the rocky beach.

A beach covered in a mix of large, flat, and smooth stones in various colors, including shades of brown, gray, and beige. The stones stretch out towards the water, catching the warm sunlight.

It’s a hidden cove, covered in beautiful, rounded flat stones perfect for skipping. The stones come in half a dozen different colors, and I loved picking them up as a kid. I picked out a few that I thought my own kids would like.

Close-up of branches and leaves beginning to turn shades of orange and red, signaling the arrival of autumn. The leaves are surrounded by greenery under a bright blue sky.

A cluster of small, round leaves in various shades of green, orange, and red, showing the early colors of autumn. The branches are densely packed with foliage as the season transitions.

Autumn is already showing itself here, with the bushes turning fiery shades of red and orange.

A small white flower resembling a carnation stands out against a green, blurred background. Its delicate petals are layered and slightly ruffled, with the surrounding leaves swaying in the breeze.

A pair of bright red berries sit atop a bed of reddish-purple leaves. The leaves have a slightly waxy texture and are part of a plant likely to be Bunchberry (Cornus canadensis).

I found some small white flowers that look a bit like carnations, though I’m not sure what they are. The wind was still strong from the passing storms, and the waves were calming to listen to.

A man with a full gray beard and wearing a brown jacket stands outdoors with his eyes closed, basking in the sunlight. The blue sky and greenery in the background create a serene and peaceful atmosphere.

A low-angle shot of a man with a gray beard wearing a brown jacket, gazing up at the sky. The bright blue sky stretches overhead, with the edge of a few trees just visible in the background.

I wandered the woods near the beach, taking in the beauty of the forest, which felt magical and full of life. The beach itself is unique, with its colorful stones shaped by the ice in winter and the waves in summer. I soaked it in.

A gray and white dog lies curled up on the ground next to a canvas tent framed by wooden poles. The dog rests peacefully as the late afternoon sun casts a warm glow over the camp.

A gray and white dog lies on the ground, holding a piece of a caribou bone between its paws. The camp is set up in the background with white canvas tents and wooden supports, while the dog enjoys its meal in the golden sunlight.

Back at camp, some new dogs had joined us, happily gnawing on caribou bones we’d tossed to them after cooking the meat.

Inside a large, white, canvas dining tent, a group of people sits at a long table sharing a meal. In the foreground, Quebec's Minister of Indian Affairs, Ian Lafrenière, sits next to Chief Theresa Chemaganish. They are smiling as they enjoy dinner, surrounded by others from the camp. The table is covered with a plastic tablecloth, and plates and cups are spread out, along with some mobile phones. The atmosphere is friendly and relaxed, with people engaged in conversation.

The Quebec Minister of Indian Affairs, Ian Lafrenière, paid a visit to the camp and had dinner with Chief Theresa Chemaganish. He seemed genuinely surprised to learn that I spoke Naskapi. It was nice to see this level of engagement from him.

The golden hues from the setting sun created a breathtaking scene at the camp as the last remnants of the storm drifted away, leaving behind a sky filled with clouds illuminated in soft oranges and purples.

As the sun set and the storms cleared, the camp was bathed in golden light.

We took time to honor the canoeists, showering them with gifts, hugs, and congratulations.

Everyone is feeling the wear of this long event—even our king, Johnny Saganash, took short naps between acts!

Later, I took a walk around the camp. It was sad to see that some tents were already being taken down, signaling the end of the gathering for some. But it was heartwarming to see how carefully each nation was dismantling their camps, piling stones, branches, and picking up every piece of trash. It was a kind and respectful way to leave the land.

The music tonight was incredible—traditional drummers and three different bands filled the air with sound. My longtime friend Willie Nab played, and I hope to upload videos of the sets later.

Somewhere along the way, I had misplaced my monopod, but someone found it and placed it on my tent. I was so relieved!

As the music wound down, some kids turned part of the dirt floor in the big tent into an indoor sandbox, having a blast while the adults relaxed.

The northern lights were faint tonight, but the stars were incredibly bright. It’s been a cold day, but a good one. I’m grateful to be here.

Although my tent doesn’t have spruce boughs, I put some in a pan and set them to boil on my woodstove. The smell is wonderful, and it’s keeping me warm tonight. It’s going to be cold, down to 4°C, but for now, I’m toasty and content.

Sun, Sep 1

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