Journal

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Winds, Services, Canoes, Caribou, and Finding Peace at the Beach

Sun, Sep 1

A group of elderly Naskapi people sit on a wooden porch outside a log cabin. Some are sitting quietly with their heads bowed, while a man stands by the door leaning on the railing. Above them, a small hand-made sign reads "Kitty Peast." The bright sunlight highlights the wood of the cabin and the gathering on the porch.
Inside a wooden cabin, a group of Naskapi people gather for a church service. Several elderly individuals sit on benches and chairs, holding hymn books or prayer guides. Two men stand reading from books, while the rest of the group listens or follows along in their seats. The room has simple wooden walls and a plaid fabric covers one of the windows.

This morning, I was greeted by an unusual sight. Many Naskapi people were crowded into Kitty Peastitute’s cabin, having a church service, while the big tent sat mostly empty. Some kind of disagreement had happened, and instead of a unified service, there were two separate ones.

An elderly man in a traditional black jacket with beige trim sits inside a large tent, gazing thoughtfully at a display. Behind him, historical posters are mounted on the wall, and stacks of folded metal chairs rest nearby. The tent has a spacious, well-lit interior with other people in the background.
Inside a large tent filled with rows of chairs, a crowd of people attends a church service. At the front, there’s a decorated stage with a banner that reads "Kwe," alongside a podium. The service includes elements of indigenous culture, with banners and symbols visible on the walls.

Since the services were held an hour apart, many Naskapi people simply attended both. It was an interesting way to handle the split, and it worked.

A man and a woman sit side by side inside the tent, viewed from behind. The man wraps his arm around the woman's shoulders, comforting her as they sit close together. The scene focuses on their intimate moment as they attend the service with others seated in the background.

The Innu service had some beautiful singing, and at one point, I saw a husband comforting his wife as she began to cry from the emotion of the music.

A close-up view of rocky ground covered in moss, lichens, and small shrubs with red and green leaves. Among the plants, a large rock is central to the image, blending into the earthy, natural surroundings. The colors of the foliage hint at early autumn, with a mix of muted greens, yellows, and reds.
A calm lake under an overcast sky with dark, thick clouds. The lake is surrounded by dense coniferous forest, and the shoreline curves gently with trees stretching out towards the water. The scene is quiet and serene, with a feeling of stillness.

After attending both services, I went out into the woods for my own church. I thought about forest fires and rebirth, how even the rockiest, stoniest terrain can eventually transform into a beautiful paradise with care and love. It was a quiet, thoughtful moment in the midst of all the activity.

A man wearing a cap and jacket sweeps the wooden floor inside a large tent with a long broom. Behind him, there is a tall wooden signpost with distances to various indigenous communities written on it, such as "Matimekush 16 km" and "Sheshatshiu 473 km." The space is set up for an event, with equipment and decorations visible around the stage area.
A man mops the floor in a large kitchen area set up in a tent. The space is filled with shelves of supplies, pots, and cooking equipment, with a banner in the background that reads "Kawawachikamach." He is smiling as he works, surrounded by the organized yet busy setting.
A man sitting in the driver's seat of a large white truck gives a thumbs-up through the window. The side of the truck displays a decal that reads "Naskapi Nation of Kawawachikamach." The cloudy sky provides a backdrop to the scene, highlighting the driver’s role in transporting supplies.

There are so many people working behind the scenes at the Elders Gathering—cooking food for the workers, hauling trash, emptying toilets, sweeping floors, and delivering water. Some of them feel embarrassed about their roles, thinking they are less desirable, but in reality, they are the true heroes of this gathering. Their efforts keep everything running smoothly, and their contributions are invaluable.

A woman stands on a gravel surface next to a collapsed tent covered in a blue tarp, giving a peace sign with her hand. In the background, another person is working near other tents made of wood and tarps, set up near a river. The sky is cloudy and dark, with strong winds affecting the camp setup.

The wind really picked up today, and it wasn’t long before one of the first tents set up on the site was lifted into the air and smashed onto another tent. I helped untangle it, and the owners took it in stride, joking, “That’s why the elders tell us to put the door facing east!” (Away from the prevailing winds).

Inside a large, low-built kitchen tent, elders sit at long tables covered with bingo cards and markers. The room is filled with the sound of conversations and laughter as the group enjoys playing bingo, sipping tea, and coffee. The wooden frame of the tent is visible, and there is a wood stove with logs stacked nearby, contributing to the cozy, communal atmosphere.

I visited another kitchen tent today, a low-built one belonging to the Innu Takuaikan Uashat mak Mani-utenam. It was a beautiful structure, filled with elders playing bingo, joking around, and sipping on tea and coffee.

A group of children stands in a circle on a gravel surface, tossing a volleyball back and forth between tents. A blue teepee and various makeshift structures are visible in the background, with a cloudy sky overhead hinting at an approaching storm. The children seem undeterred by the weather, continuing their game.
A wider view of the children playing volleyball at the camp, with more tents and a trailer visible in the background. The children are engaged in the game, with the volleyball suspended mid-air. The cloudy, stormy sky looms above the camp, but the kids remain focused on their game.
Another shot of the children’s volleyball game, showing the ball in play as it moves between the kids. Tents and portable restrooms are visible in the background, and the sky remains dark with storm clouds, though the children are undeterred.
A close-up of the volleyball in mid-air as the children continue playing in the open area between tents. The game takes place in a rustic campsite, with the storm clouds in the background adding a dramatic touch to the scene.

Even though storms were on the horizon, the kids didn’t let it dampen their fun. From different villages, they set up a volleyball circle between the Natuashish and Naskapi Nation sections of the camp.

A large white canvas tent with a small cross at the top sits on rocky ground, with a metal stovepipe protruding from one side. A black chair and a log stump are positioned outside the entrance, and the tent is surrounded by sparse trees and cloudy skies in the background, giving a rustic, camp-like feel.
A row of white canvas tents, each with metal stovepipes sticking out at different angles, lines a gravel path in a forested camp. Some tents have unique decorations, such as a Batman-themed tarp, while others have plain coverings. A red picnic table is visible on the path, under the overcast sky.

I love seeing the different nations come together and interact, and it’s fascinating how each community builds their tents slightly differently. The Natuashish people put crosses on their tents, like Naskapi homes, and many Sheshatshiu people have stove pipes coming out the front of their tents rather than the top.

A woman wearing a gray hoodie is seated in a kitchen tent, manually shredding cabbage using a hand-cranked shredder. She is focused on her task, with gloves on, and the shredded cabbage falls onto a tray in front of her. The tent’s shelves behind her are stocked with supplies, and a banner reading "Kawawachikamach" hangs above.
A group of children sits at a long table covered with a plastic tablecloth inside a kitchen tent, sheltering from the rain. They give thumbs-up to the camera, wearing hoodies and caps. Despite the rainy weather, they appear cheerful, with food and snacks in the background, while the camp outside can be seen through the tent windows.

The heavy rains eventually came, drenching the campsite, but the kids just took shelter in the kitchen tents. Thanks to the amazing work of the Naskapi crews laying solid foundations, there was no flooding, and surprisingly little mud.

I spent the rest of the evening filming the music in the bif tent. After the music died down, I went back to my tent and tried to start a fire with some rather wet firewood (my own fault for not drying it out properly). The wind whipped around, and the rain beat on the roof, but I was safe, warm, and dry in my tent. And at the end of the day, that’s all that matters.

Mon, Sep 2

A row of canvas tents set up in a campsite, with smoke rising from campfires. The tents are surrounded by a forest of tall evergreen trees. Above the tents, the sky begins to clear, with bright blue patches breaking through the lingering storm clouds. The ground is wet from recent rain, but the sun is starting to shine, bringing a calm after the storm.

The sun finally broke through the clouds this morning, chasing away the storm and rain from the past few days. It was wonderful to sleep through the sound of rain, though I know I’m still not getting enough rest.

A metal pot filled with leaves, placed on a red portable gas stove. The pot is marked with the letters "NNK" and is simmering on the stove, preparing ᐃᐦᑕ (traditional medicinal Labrador tea). The kitchen in the background is stocked with supplies, and the tea is likely being prepared for its healing properties, particularly as many people in the camp have been coughing.

A big pot of ᐃᐦᑕ was boiling in the kitchen. I drank some, just in case. Many people at the camp have been coughing, and while I haven’t caught anything yet, I’m hoping it stays that way.

I’ve never been to a daily morning mass before, but I’m finding it quiet and meditative.

A woman wearing a green hoodie speaks into a microphone. Behind her, there is a directional signpost with various distances listed, as well as decorations and a banner. She appears focused, contributing to the conversation.
An elder man in a blue camouflage hoodie speaks into a microphone. Behind him, drums and banners are visible, setting the scene of a formal discussion or panel at a community gathering.
An elder man wearing glasses and a camouflage jacket speaks into a microphone during a discussion. He is seated at a table with a disposable cup in front of him and wears a hat adorned with a medicine wheel symbol and a patterned band. The background shows a stage with drums and banners.
An elder woman with a green fleece jacket and a colorful headscarf speaks into a microphone. She sits at a discussion table with her hands clasped around the microphone. In the background, there are drums and a banner, creating an atmosphere of a community gathering.

Next, we had a session on caribou. Caribou are not doing well on the Quebec and Labrador Peninsula, so the discussion focused on strategies to help them thrive again. The challenges they face are real, and it’s clear that their survival is deeply tied to the land and traditions of the people here.

After lunch, I went back to Kawawachikamach for a much-needed shower. It’s incredible how a simple shower can revive me and make me feel human again.

A group of people stand together on the shore of a lake, bundled up in warm jackets and coats. The cloudy sky looms above, and the lake reflects the gray light of the day. In the foreground, a burned pile of wood is visible on the ground.
A group of people, some pointing and others looking on, stand by the lake. The sky is overcast, and a colorful variety of jackets and coats brighten the scene.
Two canoes, each with two paddlers, move across the water on a cloudy day. The water ripples in the wind, and the paddlers appear determined as they make their way towards the shore.
A woman in a rain jacket and boots steps onto the shore, greeting a young boy who runs toward her. A man in an orange jacket and life vest stands by a red canoe in the background. The lake's edge is rocky, with the water just a few feet away.

I then headed to Knob Lake Beach, where several dozen people were already cheering and honking their horns as paddlers came ashore.

Three people in a red canoe, paddling on a lake. One person is raising their paddle in celebration while another looks at the camera. The backdrop features a cloudy sky and a forested shoreline.
Two individuals embracing joyfully by the shore, with one man in a bright orange jacket and the other in a green jacket and hat. They are next to a red canoe, on a cloudy day with a lake in the background.
Two people hugging, one in a green jacket and the other in an orange jacket, beside a red canoe on a rocky shore. They are smiling and looking at each other with a lake and cloudy skies in the background.
A festive scene beside a red canoe with several people embracing and celebrating. An adult is hugging a child, while others around them appear joyful. The setting includes a cloudy sky and a lake in the background.

These paddlers had been out on the water since August 15, paddling over 300 kilometers in 19 days!

A person in a green rain jacket and black beanie carefully handling a red canoe on the shore of a lake. The canoe is positioned upside down on the rocky beach, and the surroundings include bushes and a cloudy sky.
A man in a blue jacket with a red life vest holds a paddle and smiles while standing beside a lake. A canoe and small group can be seen in the background on the water, while children stand nearby on the shore.
A group of people gathered at the lake's edge, including two individuals hugging with one holding a wooden paddle. Canoes rest on the shore as others engage in conversation and sip drinks. The sky is cloudy, with trees and water in the background.
Several people work together to carry a large red canoe up a slight incline, while others gather nearby in small groups. The scene is set by the lake with a cloudy sky, and the group wears a mix of outdoor gear for the occasion.

The group, made up of Naskapi and Innu people, kept the tradition of using canoes alive—a mode of transportation that their ancestors once relied on.

Two people share a warm embrace, one in a bright orange jacket and the other in a black coat. Others gather nearby, with trees and cloudy skies in the background as the community celebrates by the lakeshore.
Two women standing side by side, smiling at the camera. One wears a black hoodie and red plaid skirt, while the other wears a colorful headscarf and a blue life vest, holding a cup of coffee. A red canoe and more people are visible in the background.
An emotional close-up of two individuals embracing by the lake. The person in a purple bandana and blue jacket closes their eyes in the hug, with other people standing near the water in the background.
A smiling woman in a black rain jacket and blue life vest holds a cup of hot coffee while walking with a child beside her. They are part of a larger gathering by the lake, with canoes and other people in the background.

Despite the perils they faced—wildlife, accidents, and rough waters—the smiles on their faces as they were greeted with warm hugs and hot coffee said everything. It was such a joyful and proud moment for all the communities involved.

An expansive rainbow arcs across the sky above a line of treetops after a rainstorm. The dark clouds contrast with the vibrant colors of the rainbow, creating a serene and peaceful moment in nature.

On my way back to camp, a sudden rainstorm blew through, followed by a gigantic rainbow. It felt like a reminder that I needed a break.

Gentle waves roll onto a rocky shore under a sky filled with scattered clouds. The horizon is lined with a dark forest, and the bright blue sky contrasts with the moody clouds above the calm lake.

So, I stopped at the beach.

A close-up view of variously shaped and colored pebbles on a beach. The stones range from smooth, rounded pebbles to flat, weathered pieces in earthy tones of brown, gray, and beige.
A man with a gray beard and wearing a black cap stands by a lakeshore. Behind him, the calm water and forested horizon stretch out under a partly cloudy sky, capturing the serene beauty of the natural setting.

I’ve been working non-stop since I arrived—up with the sun, staying up late into the night, fighting with the internet to upload stories, photos, and videos. But the beach is one of my favorite places in this whole area, and it helped me relax

An overhead view of a variety of smooth, flat stones on a beach, ranging from light beige to dark brown and gray. Several large rocks are mixed among smaller, rounded pebbles.
A close-up of a collection of thin, flat, overlapping stones, arranged in intricate natural patterns. The stones vary in shades of brown and gray, with a few large rocks interspersed.
The sun breaks through clouds over a peaceful lake, reflecting on the water’s surface. The scene is framed by a dark forested shoreline, with gentle waves lapping against the rocky beach.
A beach covered in a mix of large, flat, and smooth stones in various colors, including shades of brown, gray, and beige. The stones stretch out towards the water, catching the warm sunlight.

It’s a hidden cove, covered in beautiful, rounded flat stones perfect for skipping. The stones come in half a dozen different colors, and I loved picking them up as a kid. I picked out a few that I thought my own kids would like.

Close-up of branches and leaves beginning to turn shades of orange and red, signaling the arrival of autumn. The leaves are surrounded by greenery under a bright blue sky.
A cluster of small, round leaves in various shades of green, orange, and red, showing the early colors of autumn. The branches are densely packed with foliage as the season transitions.

Autumn is already showing itself here, with the bushes turning fiery shades of red and orange.

A small white flower resembling a carnation stands out against a green, blurred background. Its delicate petals are layered and slightly ruffled, with the surrounding leaves swaying in the breeze.
A pair of bright red berries sit atop a bed of reddish-purple leaves. The leaves have a slightly waxy texture and are part of a plant likely to be Bunchberry (Cornus canadensis).
Bright green leaves tinged with yellow stand out among surrounding vegetation. The plant is low to the ground, possibly an early sign of autumn approaching, with some stems supporting red berries.
A mix of vibrant fall colors—green, orange, red, and purple—on small, rounded leaves in a dense shrub. The leaves show the seasonal change, with the plant’s foliage gradually turning autumnal.

I found some small white flowers that look a bit like carnations, though I’m not sure what they are. The wind was still strong from the passing storms, and the waves were calming to listen to.

A man with a full gray beard and wearing a brown jacket stands outdoors with his eyes closed, basking in the sunlight. The blue sky and greenery in the background create a serene and peaceful atmosphere.
A low-angle shot of a man with a gray beard wearing a brown jacket, gazing up at the sky. The bright blue sky stretches overhead, with the edge of a few trees just visible in the background.

I wandered the woods near the beach, taking in the beauty of the forest, which felt magical and full of life. The beach itself is unique, with its colorful stones shaped by the ice in winter and the waves in summer. I soaked it in.

A gray and white dog lies curled up on the ground next to a canvas tent framed by wooden poles. The dog rests peacefully as the late afternoon sun casts a warm glow over the camp.
A gray and white dog lies on the ground, holding a piece of a caribou bone between its paws. The camp is set up in the background with white canvas tents and wooden supports, while the dog enjoys its meal in the golden sunlight.

Back at camp, some new dogs had joined us, happily gnawing on caribou bones we’d tossed to them after cooking the meat.

Inside a large, white, canvas dining tent, a group of people sits at a long table sharing a meal. In the foreground, Quebec's Minister of Indian Affairs, Ian Lafrenière, sits next to Chief Theresa Chemaganish. They are smiling as they enjoy dinner, surrounded by others from the camp. The table is covered with a plastic tablecloth, and plates and cups are spread out, along with some mobile phones. The atmosphere is friendly and relaxed, with people engaged in conversation.

The Quebec Minister of Indian Affairs, Ian Lafrenière, paid a visit to the camp and had dinner with Chief Theresa Chemaganish. He seemed genuinely surprised to learn that I spoke Naskapi. It was nice to see this level of engagement from him.

The golden hues from the setting sun created a breathtaking scene at the camp as the last remnants of the storm drifted away, leaving behind a sky filled with clouds illuminated in soft oranges and purples.
The golden hues from the setting sun created a breathtaking scene at the camp as the last remnants of the storm drifted away, leaving behind a sky filled with clouds illuminated in soft oranges and purples.

As the sun set and the storms cleared, the camp was bathed in golden light.

We took time to honor the canoeists, showering them with gifts, hugs, and congratulations.

Everyone is feeling the wear of this long event—even our king, Johnny Saganash, took short naps between acts!

Later, I took a walk around the camp. It was sad to see that some tents were already being taken down, signaling the end of the gathering for some. But it was heartwarming to see how carefully each nation was dismantling their camps, piling stones, branches, and picking up every piece of trash. It was a kind and respectful way to leave the land.

The music tonight was incredible—traditional drummers and three different bands filled the air with sound. My longtime friend Willie Nab played, and I hope to upload videos of the sets later.

Somewhere along the way, I had misplaced my monopod, but someone found it and placed it on my tent. I was so relieved!

As the music wound down, some kids turned part of the dirt floor in the big tent into an indoor sandbox, having a blast while the adults relaxed.

The northern lights were faint tonight, but the stars were incredibly bright. It’s been a cold day, but a good one. I’m grateful to be here.

Although my tent doesn’t have spruce boughs, I put some in a pan and set them to boil on my woodstove. The smell is wonderful, and it’s keeping me warm tonight. It’s going to be cold, down to 4°C, but for now, I’m toasty and content.

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Walking Out, Winds, and Elders’ Wisdom

Sat, Aug 31

A group of three people seated at a table under a large tent, holding a religious mass. A man in a plaid shirt reads from a book into a microphone, while the woman next to him, wearing a vibrant yellow scarf and floral skirt, also reads attentively. The third man, seated beside her, has his hands folded on the table. In the foreground, attendees are listening, some wearing bright hats and scarves. The tent is decorated with greenery, and the scene conveys a sense of community and spiritual reflection.

The next morning began with another nation holding mass at the big tent. I love how each nation does things differently, but everyone has appreciated and attended each other’s services.

An elder stands with a ceremonial tobacco pipe during a traditional tobacco pipe ceremony, an important cultural ritual. They are dressed in a checkered shirt and headband, and nearby, another elder assists with the ritual preparations. Sage burns softly on the table in front of them.

Right after mass, they held a tobacco pipe ceremony, and many of the elders participated. Sage was burning, and some elders began preparing for the Walking Out ceremony.

Walking Out Ceremony group (elder woman in red coat): An elder woman, wearing a vibrant red coat and traditional cap, sits comfortably in a mobility scooter. She smiles warmly, clearly enjoying the ceremony. Behind her, a man in a red jacket stands with his arms crossed, as a dark sky looms in the distance.
Walking Out Ceremony group (woman in blue jacket): A Naskapi woman in a blue jacket with the "Naskapi Nation" logo smiles and chats with another woman during the Walking Out ceremony. She’s wearing a colorful scarf, and a crowd can be seen mingling behind her.

A Walking Out ceremony is a little like a baptism, but it’s typically done for young children.

A lone eagle soars high in the sky, its wings fully spread as it glides effortlessly in circles. The bird appears small against the vast expanse of the blue sky, symbolizing freedom and a spiritual connection with nature.

As preparations were being made, a large golden eagle flew in wide, westward circles overhead. One of the elders commented that the camp might have disturbed her hunting grounds but hoped she wouldn’t mind too much.

Johnny and Louisa B. Saganash offered to lead the Walking Out ceremony. Aunts, uncles, parents, and grandparents all play important roles in the ceremony, as it’s designed to connect the youngest generation with traditional ways.
A group of older adults sit outdoors near a large white tent, bundled up in jackets and colorful blankets. A man in a blue camo hoodie speaks animatedly to the seated group, which appears to be listening attentively. The sky is overcast, and the gathering conveys a sense of community amidst traditional cultural elements.

Johnny and Louisa B. Saganash offered to lead the Walking Out ceremony.

An older man, a young child in traditional plaid clothing, and an older woman sit together outdoors. The child sits on the man’s lap, holding a cup, while the woman, draped in a colorful shawl and blanket, smiles. The backdrop features evergreen trees and a cloudy sky, with a calm outdoor setting.
A seated elderly man wearing a blue jacket and black beret looks off to the side, smiling, while holding an umbrella. Behind him, another man stands in the background, dressed in a hoodie. A large white tent and an overcast sky fill the scene, creating an atmosphere of community gathering.
A man assists a young child, who is learning to walk on a ground covered in green fir branches. The man, dressed in a black vest and baseball cap, holds the child’s hands as they take steps. The child, bundled in a blue knit hat, stands near some wood and greenery, with seated people and cabins in the background.
The same man continues to help the young child walk outdoors. The child, wearing a winter hat and boots, takes cautious steps across a patch of fir branches, as onlookers in colorful clothing watch from behind. The setting features an outdoor gathering with a mix of cultural and natural elements.

Aunts, uncles, parents, and grandparents all play important roles in the ceremony, as it’s designed to connect the youngest generation with traditional ways.

A close-up of a young boy, Cohen, wearing a bright red jacket, gazing curiously off to the side. His face is calm, and his eyes reflect natural light. The blurred background hints at an outdoor setting with soft, overcast skies.

One of the children, Cohen, was particularly curious about my camera. He was eager to be part of everything, and his energy was infectious.

Two older women, each holding a young girl by the hands, guide them as they walk on a bed of pine branches. The young girls, dressed in bright red sweaters and colorful skirts, hold small evergreen sprigs. A crowd of people sits in the background, watching the ceremony unfold in an outdoor setting.
A man helps a young boy, who is being held by another man, hold a rifle. The scene takes place near a pile of wood and pine branches, with people watching the ceremony from behind. The boy is bundled in a blue hat and winter boots, while the men guiding him wear casual outdoor clothing.
A smiling toddler in a red plaid skirt and brown sweater is supported by two adults holding her hands as she steps on a bed of pine branches. The adults, dressed in colorful clothing with traditional designs, stand next to a small evergreen tree as part of the ceremonial scene.
A woman, dressed in a white and blue traditional outfit, gently holds the hands of a young girl in matching attire as they walk on a bed of pine branches. The girl clutches an evergreen sprig in one hand, while onlookers behind them, including elders and other participants, observe the event in an outdoor setting.

Each aspect of traditional Naskapi life is symbolized in the ceremony. For the boys, a small stuffed caribou represents their first hunt, and for the girls, a branch from a pine tree symbolizes their first tent. Pine boughs are used to line the floors of tents, giving off a fragrant and soft scent. One of the grandfathers helped a young boy fire a blank from a rifle, symbolizing the boy’s first hunt, and this helps ease the pressure for future hunts as they grow older.

A man holds the hand of a young boy as they walk across a bed of pine branches during a traditional ceremony. The boy is dressed in a vest and blue sneakers, and an older woman in a colorful scarf and skirt stands nearby, smiling. The setting is outdoors with a backdrop of trees and people seated, watching the event.
The same man and young boy continue their ceremonial walk over pine boughs. The boy holds a green cloth and a small stuffed animal representing a caribou as they pass a pile of chopped wood. People in the background, some taking photos, observe the significant moment under cloudy skies.

The most important part of the Walking Out ceremony is when the child takes their first step off the carpet of boughs. This step symbolizes their journey out into the world, but importantly, they are never alone—family is always there to support them.

A group of young children, seated in a line, wearing colorful knit hats, traditional outfits, and cozy boots, look ahead with curious expressions. They sit on a bed of pine branches outdoors, next to a small evergreen tree. The background is blurred, with some chairs and an elder watching the event.
Elders and two adults sit behind a group of young children who are seated on pine branches. The children are dressed in vibrant, traditional clothing with colorful hats, and the elders are smiling, observing the scene. A large tipi structure and an evergreen tree are visible in the background.
A group of three women and two young children pose outside a tipi. The children wear matching blue knit hats and red sweaters while being held by two of the women. The adults are dressed in traditional skirts with colorful designs, smiling as they celebrate the ceremony together.
A woman helps a young child, who is dressed in traditional clothing, kneel beside a small evergreen tree during the ceremony. The child holds a doll, and a stuffed caribou toy rests nearby on a pile of logs, symbolizing elements of traditional Naskapi life. Behind them, a tipi stands under cloudy skies.

It’s an adorable and joyous event. Elders take pride in dressing their grandchildren in the traditional clothing they wore as children, and the entire family embraces the child with love and pride.

Four people stand in front of a building's door, smiling for the camera. Three of them are standing while one person sits on the steps in front. They are dressed casually, wearing hoodies, jeans, and T-shirts. The backdrop is a modern building with a glass door, and the group appears relaxed and friendly. This is part of the Wapikoni team, collaborating with the Naskapi Nation to record and produce music and videos.

After the ceremony, I headed back to Kawawachikamach to shower, do some laundry, and meet with Rui Silveira, Elayna Einish, and the rest of the Wapikoni team. They’re here to help the Naskapi Nation and Tepatshimuna Matimekush Lac-john Natives record and produce music and videos for free.

An elderly woman, wearing a colorful red headscarf with floral designs, reaches out from a car window, holding someone’s hand firmly. Her expression is warm and affectionate as she leans slightly out of the car. The image captures a tender, intimate moment between the two people.
The same elderly woman, still holding onto the other person’s hand, appears deeply connected and emotionally engaged in the moment. Her grip is strong as she leans out from the car window. The background shows the interior of the vehicle, with warm sunlight reflecting inside.

When I returned to the Elders’ Gathering, I ran into David and Susan Swappie riding in Seasi’s truck. Susan, as is her habit, grabbed my hand and wouldn’t let go, repeatedly saying, “ᔄᔾᒥᑎᓐ, ᔄᔾᒥᑎᓐ, ᔄᔾᒥᑎᓐ… (I love you, I love you, I love you)” in Naskapi.

An elderly man sits in the passenger seat of a car, wearing a baseball cap with "Kawawachikamach" embroidered on it. His expression is calm, looking out the window. In the driver's seat is a woman smiling, also wearing a cap and sunglasses. They are dressed warmly, and the scene appears to capture a relaxed moment between the two.
An elderly woman sits in the back seat of a car, holding a white to-go container with a meal of bread and other food. She wears a jacket with a colorful Naskapi patch on the sleeve and a red floral headscarf. Her expression is content, as she enjoys the meal in a cozy setting.

They hadn’t eaten yet, but Seasi told me she had some submarine sandwiches. After I laughed at her for feeding them “white people food”, I ran and got them plates of fish, wapachi, and fresh bannock.

We sat together for a while, talking, while David watched the crowds, calling over family and friends to chat with them. It was good to see them out and enjoying the gathering.

Later that evening, the Elders Gathering beauty contest took place, where couples from each community competed in a hilarious dance-off. It was lighthearted fun, and everyone had a great time laughing and cheering.

I ended the night practicing recording the northern lights as timelapse.

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A Memorial, The Milky Way, A Walk, and Blueberries

Thu, Aug 29

A serene lake stretches across the frame, its surface reflecting the bright sunlight and the blue sky scattered with soft clouds. The distant shoreline is lined with trees, adding a natural border to the calm waters. The sun shines brightly, casting a peaceful, shimmering light over the water.
Benjamin Jancewicz stands outdoors, eyes closed and face lifted toward the sun, fully immersed in the warmth and light. He wears a brightly colored hoodie with intricate patterns, and the background shows an expanse of forest and clear blue sky, evoking a moment of deep connection to nature and tranquility.

I’ve found that my days go better if I start by the water. There’s something so peaceful and grounding about being near the lake, especially here, where the air is likely the cleanest I’ll ever breathe. I make it a point to take deep breaths and soak it all in—this air feels like a gift.

A close-up view of a native plant, with soft green leaves and delicate stems, bathed in sunlight. The intricate details of the plant’s structure echo natural patterns, similar to traditional Naskapi designs in beadwork and painted coats. The background softly fades into a blur, hinting at a serene lake and surrounding greenery in the distance.

Everywhere I look, the land is full of patterns that remind me of the designs Naskapi people paint on their coats and sew into their beadwork. It’s like nature itself reflecting back on the culture.

A panel of three Naskapi women sits at a table under a large tent. The woman in the center holds a microphone, sharing stories with those in attendance. She wears a floral scarf, a symbol of the traditional style, and the other women also don similar scarves. In the background, an older woman, dressed warmly, listens through headphones. On the table are a bottle of hand sanitizer and a black purse, contrasting with the serious atmosphere as the stories unfold.
A group of elder Naskapi women, all wearing intricately patterned shawls, listens intently during a gathering. The expressions on their faces are thoughtful and reflective, as they absorb the stories and messages shared during the mass. Their colorful scarves and peaceful demeanor offer a rich tapestry of tradition, wisdom, and quiet strength, highlighting the community's respect for their elders and spiritual practices.

Different communities have been holding mass daily, which is a beautiful thing to witness. You get to see how different Nations approach spirituality, each unique yet united in spirit.

Back at the Naskapi Kitchen, Noah Swappie was busy setting up a tent for his mother. Because some of the workers have been grieving, we’ve been a bit short-staffed, but Noah is a pro—he had the tent up in no time.

This morning, I had the pleasure of sharing breakfast with Johnny and Louisa B. Saganash. I’ve been learning so much from them about Cree communities, and our conversations have been deeply enriching.

That afternoon, we gathered for a memorial to honor the memory of elder Alexandre “Napess” McKenzie, who tragically went through the ice this spring. A group of us gathered Derek Jeremy’s cabin, and from there, we took boats to the site of the accident.

Wapen invited me and Anaïs, a photographer from Innu Takuaikan Uashat mak Mani-utenam, to join him in the first boat. The waters of Kachikayach (Iron Arm Lake) were particularly shallow this year due to the lack of rain. Shundy had put out floats near Second Water to help avoid the larger rocks.

Despite the low water levels, we made good time, and along the way, we spotted a magnificent Golden Eagle perched on one of the outcrops.

As the sun began to dip low, I snapped a photo of Wapen navigating the rocks. Always one for dark humor, he had joked earlier that he couldn’t swim because “there’s no money in it.” I told him I’d use the photo on his memorial card when he drowns. We laughed, trying to remain lighthearted on such a serious mission.

The memorial took place on a beautiful spit of land that juts into the lake, making the area particularly shallow. This is where Alexandre’s snowmobile had gone through the ice earlier this year. Wapen took a private moment for himself—he was the first one on the scene that tragic day.

The men quickly mounted a cross on the stump of a tree that had been felled, and the brush had been cleared so we could gather.

Father Raibe Alfred led us in prayer, delivering a message in Innu. His dedication to learning the language over his eight years in Uashat is nothing short of impressive.

The land here, though rocky, is covered in centuries-old caribou moss that’s so thick it feels like a giant sponge. Many of us sat on the ground, and it felt as soft as a pillow beneath us—a perfect place for both prayer and quiet reflection.

The memorial was both healing and heartbreaking. Although the event was centered around Alexandre’s family, many others came to offer their respects. Alexandre was an elder who touched many lives, and it was clear how deeply he would be missed.

People placed small tokens on Alexandre’s cross—a handmade mitten, a rosary fluttering in the wind.

Wapen went over to offer his condolences to Alexandre’s wife, Charlotte, who had requested that we all gather stones from the beach. These stones served as a parting gift from us to Alexandre and also helped keep the cross steady in the strong winds.

The tall ᐛᒋᓇᑭᓐ tree next to the site seemed to sing in the wind as we gathered for a moment of silence.

Charlotte and her daughters, Line and Alexandra, reached out to connect with him one last time.

As people withdrew, I held back, taking in the scene and imagining how time would change this sacred spot. The north both weathers and preserves, but as long as his family remembers, Alexandre’s memory will endure.

Aaron Einish stayed behind with me as the others retreated. He had brought a set of shears to help clear the area and make the space more comfortable for the family. Before we left, Aaron reminded Charlotte, “You’re never alone. We will help you, always.”

As the sun dipped lower, we knew we had to make our way back. The lake is dangerous at night without light, so we all set off in convoy for the southwest, back to the Kachikayach cabins. The temperature dropped quickly, but we were all filled with peace as we headed home.

The sky turned a brilliant gold, and I felt a deep sense of gratitude for having been part of this day.

Back at Derek Jeremy Einish and Annie Vollant Einish’s cabin, they fired up the woodstove, and we warmed ourselves by the fire, sharing jokes and stories before heading back to camp.

On the way, we stopped at the ridge marking the border between Quebec and Labrador. Anaïs had never seen the Milky Way before, so we sat there for a while, spotting constellations, watching shooting stars, and tracking satellites as they passed overhead.

It was late by the time we returned to camp, and I was exhausted. But the party in the big tent was still going strong, so I joined in, dancing until they turned off the lights.

It was a good day.

Fri, Aug 30

Had breakfast with Johnny & Louisa B. Saganash. I’m really loving getting to know more about what Cree communities are like.

Today also marked the Community Walk Against Drugs and Alcohol. We all gathered at the intersection where Kachikayach Road splits between the Innu and Naskapi communities. Melissa Marie Peastitute has been key in organizing this movement; she even printed hoodies for everyone. Ajuash Uniam brought a busload of students to participate, which was amazing to see.

I wasn’t expecting such a large turnout! It was heartening to see so many people standing up against something that has deeply hurt our communities. Chiefs Theresa Chemaganish and Real McKenzie gave moving speeches, and Jean-Sebastien Louise Kapesh shared her own powerful testimony, driving the point home.

I put together a video of the walk, which I’m very very proud of.

Anaïs and I zipped ahead in the side-by-side to capture shots and videos as everyone marched. We ended the walk at the big tent, where more speeches followed—Father Raibe Alfred, both chiefs and William Moffat all shared words of encouragement and solidarity. I’ll post those speeches’ recordings on the Elders gathering page soon. As we walked to the Cultural Site, we stopped at the large sign forbidding drugs and alcohol.

One of the things I love most about the Elders Gathering is all the kids running around. Some of them learned from the elders how to pick blueberries and have been going out on their own to gather them and make “blueberry juice.” It’s such a sweet sight.

I took a quick trip back home in the afternoon for a shower. The weather has been incredible—warm, breezy, and fresh, with no bugs to speak of. I love it.

Back at the camp, communities have been visiting each other to trade and sell traditional wares. I saw a woman who brought a case full of beautiful handmade skirts for the Naskapi women to buy.

Later, I was in the kitchen when Elizabeth Pien held up a piece of bologna and joked, “Look, I made a PacMan!”

I had dinner with the Naskapi Elders tonight, which was a lovely way to wind down.

It seems like the sky is trying to outdo itself every evening. I just try to keep up to capture it.

As I was walking, a group of kids passed by and called out, “Are you the guy taking all the pictures? Take some of us! We’re going to listen to music!”

Soon after, an elderly couple made their way toward the big tent, saying, “We’re going to listen to music, too.”

I met a kid named ᓇᐱᓯᔅ who had made himself a bow. It reminded me so much of my childhood when I spent countless hours exploring the woods with Noah Nabinicaboo, Aaron Einish, James Pien, Donna Einish Mortimer, ᒐᓯᑲ ᓇᑕᐛᐱᔪᐤ, and so many others. Those were some of the best times.

As the sun set, the Big Tent was packed. Several bands played, and everyone danced the night away. It was a joyful, vibrant scene, filled with laughter, music, and movement.

Elders gatherings are for lovers, too. Couples cuddled up everywhere, enjoying the music under the stars. I wished Marilyne could be here to enjoy this.

Laurent Mark absolutely rocked the stage tonight, and bits of Northern Lights peeked through the clouds.

Today was a good day.

Posted on

Tech Problems, Opening Ceremonies, and the Wind

Tue, Aug 27

A laptop is set up on a piece of plywood balanced between two chairs in a makeshift workspace. The screen shows a photo-editing software interface, with multiple images displayed. A mouse and mousepad sit to the right of the laptop, while cables and a power adapter are visible to the left. The scene is set in the Naskapi Kitchen, with folding chairs and tables in the background. The setting feels temporary and improvised, yet functional.

The next morning was rough. I hadn’t slept well, and things seemed off from the start. When I arrived at the Naskapi Kitchen to work, I discovered that the table I’d been using as a desk was gone. I had to improvise, piecing together a makeshift desk with a couple of chairs and a piece of plywood I found in the garbage. Not the ideal setup, but it got me through.

A woman with gray-streaked hair is sitting at a white table inside a large tent, wearing a green Arc'teryx jacket and holding a phone in her right hand. Her expression is thoughtful as she looks to the left. Other people are seated at the table around her, engaged in conversation.
A large breakfast buffet spread inside a tent. Several trays of fruit, cheese, and toast are laid out on a table, with people lining up to serve themselves. A woman in a black "Buffalo" T-shirt holds a cup of food and stands near the buffet table, while others serve themselves in the background. The setting is lively, with multiple people moving around, and tables are filled with attendees enjoying breakfast.

In the big tent, the air was full of anticipation. We held several meetings, tying up loose ends for the opening day of the Elders Gathering. The kitchen crew outdid themselves with an incredible breakfast spread, a reminder of the care and skill that goes into every meal here.

A man, identified as John Chescappio, stands beside a wooden signpost placed on the stage in a large tent. The signpost has directional signs showing the distances from the gathering site to various nearby communities, including Waswanipi (856 km), Masteuiatsh (803 km), and Kawawachikamach (9 km). John is pointing towards one of the signs. The stage is decorated with evergreen branches and traditional items, including a mannequin wearing Indigenous attire. The scene evokes a sense of connection among the communities represented.

John Chescappio added a beautiful touch to the gathering with a tall signpost for the stage, showing accurate distances between each community and the Gathering site. A subtle but powerful reminder of how far we’ve all come to be here together.

Michapow (Paul Arthur McKenzie) stands holding a microphone, leading the group in prayer before a meal at the Elders Gathering. He is dressed in a dark jacket, with glasses and short silver hair. Behind him, a large tent with curved windows can be seen, decorated with evergreen trees and banners. A microphone stand is nearby, and a banner in the background reads, "Empowering Your World - Lighting, Power, and Communications by Sichuun."

Before we ate, Michapow  (Paul Arthur McKenzie) led everyone in prayer.

Raoul Vollant, wearing a light green jacket and gray scarf, is sitting in the front seat of a vehicle, smiling broadly through the open window. He appears joyful and ready for his next task at the Elders Gathering.
A group of five elders, four women and one man, are seated outside a large white tent at the gathering. They are all dressed in colorful traditional clothing, with the two women on the left wearing bandanas and the man on the far right holding a carved walking stick. They are sitting comfortably and smiling, enjoying their time together.

Raoul Vollant, a SOCAM reporter, was busy interviewing elders and leaders, capturing their stories and wisdom. The elders were happy to be back together—it was heartwarming to see.

A wide-angle view of the interior of a large event tent, with long rows of tables filled with people. The tables are covered with white tablecloths, and attendees are seated or standing, socializing and eating. The bright, open space has windows along the sides, letting in natural light. The atmosphere is busy and communal, with many elders and families gathered for a meal at the Elders Gathering.
A floatplane flies high above the Elders Gathering camp, with thick clouds in the background. Below, a few people walk around the tents and vehicles parked in the camp area. The tall trees of the northern forest line the horizon, adding a rugged and remote feel to the scene.

A floatplane buzzed over the camp as we ate, adding a classic northern touch to the scene. Would it even be a real northern camp without a floatplane flying by?

The reflection of Benjamin Jancewicz is visible on the screen of their MacBook Pro, which displays a restart error message. The background shows a tent structure with people moving around, blurred in the distance. The image captures the frustration of dealing with technical difficulties in an outdoor working environment.

The day wasn’t without its challenges. My computer started acting up while I was trying to edit videos, and after countless attempts, it refused to turn back on. As if that wasn’t enough, gale-force winds knocked out the internet, making everything more difficult. Five hours on the phone with Apple tech support felt like an eternity, and in between troubleshooting, I was still trying to shoot photos and videos.

A handmade wooden sign hangs at the entrance of Benjamin Jancewicz's tent. The sign is tied with yellow rope to a simple structure made from branches and features Benjamin’s name written in both Naskapi syllabics and English. A knitted green hat hangs nearby, and a chimney pipe from the tent’s woodstove is visible in the background. The sky is partially cloudy, casting soft light over the camp. The sign is a meaningful, personal touch in an otherwise rustic setup.

But there was a small, emotional lift during the chaos: I discovered that my Dad had made me a sign for my tent. It was a simple gesture, but it meant so much to me.

Image of women sitting by tents: A group of women, some wearing traditional skirts and shawls, sit together near a tent at the camp, engaging in conversation. They are gathered around a couple of camping chairs, and the sun is shining, casting a warm light on their faces. One of the women is standing, holding a cup of coffee, while the others are seated.
Image of Samson butchering geese: An older man, Samson, stands by a picnic table, wearing a plaid shirt and a bucket hat, carefully cutting meat from freshly butchered geese. His expression is focused. Around him, a few others work on preparing the food, with tents and other camp structures visible in the background. Various cuts of meat are laid out in a tray labeled "ED" on the table.

Meanwhile, preparations for the opening ceremony continued. The women dressed in their finest, and Samson came by to lend his expertise in butchering geese.

Noah Swappie stands in front of an audience, holding a microphone and presenting a slideshow on Naskapi history. Behind him is a large monitor showing a slide with images of Naskapi people and the Kawawachikamach logo. A vertical banner for the Institut Tshakapesh is visible in the background. He is wearing a gray shirt, black pants, and a hat, with a sash tied around his waist, symbolizing his cultural pride. A backpack sits on the floor near him.

Noah Swappie led a beautiful presentation on Naskapi history, which Nuwata Robinseeno helped put together.

You can view the full presentation here.

An elder woman smiles as she kneads dough in a large mixing bowl, her hands and face dusted with flour. She wears a checkered flannel shirt and glasses, while a man, likely another elder, stands behind her wearing a black shirt and a baseball cap. They are outdoors near a tent, as preparations for meals continue at the gathering. The expression on her face reflects her focus and warmth despite the busy kitchen setting.

In the kitchen, the cooks didn’t stop. They had no time to clean up, just moving from one task to the next as they prepared meal after meal for everyone.

A group of young students from Jimmy Sandy Memorial School's Grade 2 class, dressed in a mix of traditional Naskapi plaid clothing and modern attire, line up for a dance. Their faces show focus and anticipation as they perform at the Opening Ceremony of the event. Some wear plaid capes or vests, with a few looking directly at the camera.
More children from the Jimmy Sandy Memorial School Grade 2 class are seen in traditional clothing. One of the boys wears a white vest with blue plaid panels and a black shirt, while others don bright colors and headscarves. A young girl in a vibrant orange and yellow dress smiles joyfully as the group continues their performance.
Noah Swappie, wearing a gray polo shirt and a baseball cap, helps guide the students in their traditional dance. He holds the hand of a young girl in a pink hoodie, leading her through the steps while other students in plaid and traditional outfits look on or continue dancing in the background.
A large group of children stands on stage, facing the camera with many smiling and waving enthusiastically. The kids, some dressed in traditional plaid clothing, are gathered in a semicircle at the front of the stage. Behind them, a large audience sits along the edges of the tent, watching the performance. The tent is spacious, with a high ceiling and large windows letting in natural light. The scene captures the joy and energy of the children's performance during the event.

The Jimmy Sandy Memorial School Grade 2 Class led the Opening Ceremony with a dance, all dressed up in traditional clothing. It was absolutely adorable.

You can watch the dance here.

A group of Chiefs and dignitaries from various nations stand together on stage, holding a yellow ribbon, as part of the official opening of the event. Chief Theresa Chemaganish is present alongside others, under a banner that reads "WACHIYA means HELLO & BONJOUR." The stage is decorated with symbols of nature, including a backdrop of spruce branches and traditional Naskapi art.
Chiefs and dignitaries from multiple nations gather on stage, presenting gifts to Chief Theresa Chemaganish and event organizers. Chief Theresa holds a ceremonial paddle, while others offer traditional gifts such as blankets. The event takes place under the same decorated stage backdrop, and the gesture signifies the importance of unity and mutual respect among the nations.

Chief Theresa Chemaganish officially opened everything, accompanied by Chiefs and dignitaries from all the other nations. Several nations gave gifts to her and some of the organizers of the event.

Réal McKenzie, Mike McKenzie, Jean-Charles Piétacho, Simon Pokue, Theresa Chemaganish, Annick Flamand, Hervé Pinecic, and Angela Pasteen all gave speeches.

Michapow (Paul Arthur McKenzie) is seated on stage, holding drumsticks and smiling at the camera, preparing to start the Opening Ceremonies with traditional drumming. Behind him, other men in traditional vests are seen preparing and filming the event. The audience is seated in the background, wrapped in warm clothing and blankets, watching attentively. The setting is within a large, warmly lit tent adorned with Naskapi art and decorations.

Michapow (Paul Arthur McKenzie) started the Opening Ceremonies with traditional drumming.

A close-up selfie of Benjamin Jancewicz, showing a clear view of their bearded face, wearing a cap and a red shirt. The expression on their face looks slightly weary but calm, with the background blurred behind them, likely taken in a tent or indoor setting.
A makeshift video editing station set up inside a large tent. An iPad is open on top of a laptop, showing a video editing interface with a scene of Michapow drumming. Various cables, chargers, and devices are visible, indicating a busy workspace. The background shows a kitchen area with refrigerators and dim lighting.

By the end of the day, I was exhausted. Trying to make things work against all odds is draining. But I found a workaround for the video editing issue—using my phone to record video, transferring it to my iPad via an SD card adapter, and then uploading it with Ethernet. It was a hassle, but at least it worked.

A night shot of a campsite, with tents made from canvas and wooden structures visible under a dark sky. Glowing embers from a fire shoot upward, creating streaks of orange light. A small spotlight in the distance adds a cool blue hue to the scene.
Another night view of the campsite, this time focusing on a well-lit tent entrance, illuminated from within. A chair leans against the frame of the tent, while the greenish hue of the Northern Lights can be faintly seen in the sky above.

Toward the end of the day, the rain got more intense. I was cold. I was wet. I was tired. But my stove was hot, my bed was warm, and as I lay there, the Northern Lights danced above me. Somehow, in the middle of it all, everything felt worth it.

Wed, Aug 28

A view of the large event tent set up for the gathering. Rows of empty chairs are positioned in the foreground, facing a stage decorated with greenery, drums, and a sign that reads "Wachiya means Hello & Bonjour." A few people are seen standing near the stage and scattered throughout the tent. The event banners and various displays line the tent's sides.

This morning started a bit differently. They held mass in the big tent, and I slept in, catching the tail end of it. I had been catching up on much-needed sleep, and despite the terrific windstorm from the night before, I slept like a stone.

Two elders stand next to a display table filled with Naskapi artifacts and crafts at the Naskapi Development Corporation exhibit. The table showcases traditional items, including a beaded pouch, a small reindeer figurine, and a colorful fabric piece. The elders appear to be appreciating the cultural items, reflecting the rich history of the Naskapi people. In the background, a stage and more seating are visible under a large event tent.

At the Naskapi Development Corporation’s display, they laid out artifacts, crafts, and the history of the Naskapi people. It was inspiring to see elders from other communities admiring the collection, taking in the rich stories of the past.

A small workstation set up in the kitchen tent includes a laptop, mouse, iPad, and water bottle on a black table. The laptop displays a login screen, while the iPad is locked, showing the time as 11:05. In the background, a long table with kitchen equipment, including a large bowl and mugs, is visible. A person wearing a "Native Pride" cap sits nearby. The reflective surfaces capture the photographer's reflection, adding a personal touch to the thoughtful breakfast setup arranged for them.

Back in the kitchen, the staff saved me some pancakes for breakfast and even set me up with my own little table. It was such a thoughtful gesture—one that made me feel so cared for.

Caroline St-Onge speaks into a microphone while leading a session on grief. She is sitting at a table alongside another elder, both dressed in warm clothing. The backdrop includes a large cross, banners, and festive greenery decorating the tent.
A close-up shot of several women sitting in rows during the grief session. They listen intently, with somber and reflective expressions. The tent’s arched windows and display boards can be seen in the background.
Two women sitting in the audience during the grief session, both dressed warmly. One woman wears a light blue hoodie with a Naskapi event logo, while the other is wearing a black jacket. They sit quietly, processing the emotional moment.
A man, seated alone, listens thoughtfully during the grief session. He wears a black cap and a gray jacket. Behind him, empty rows of chairs and a decorated wall with various posters and displays are visible.
Two women embrace each other tightly, offering comfort during the grief session. Both are wearing patterned jackets. Other members of the community, also visibly emotional, stand nearby in the background.
A tender moment where two women share an emotional hug during the session. One wears a purple jacket with a white fringed shawl, and the other is in a red and black checkered jacket. Both are visibly moved by the session.

Later in the morning, Caroline St-Onge led a session on grief. Our community was shaken by the tragic news that one of our young men had taken his own life during the night. The grief session was exactly what we all needed to process this heavy loss. The community has lost many people this year, but this event made it clearer than ever how much we need each other in these difficult times.

A woman in a black jacket, standing at a microphone, speaks with her hand on her chest. Another woman stands beside her, listening attentively. Both women are part of a session held under a large tent with traditional decor, including greenery and woven crafts.
A circle of elders sits together under a large tent. The group is deep in conversation, some wearing colorful blankets and hats. Behind them, the stage is decorated with traditional symbols, and several other people are seated around the tent, engaging in their own conversations.
A second group of elders sits in a sharing circle under the same large tent. This group is also engaged in conversation, with one elder draped in a colorful Hudson’s Bay blanket. Posters displaying historical information are visible on the tent wall behind them.
A smaller group of women sits in a circle, having a discussion under the large tent. One woman wears a blanket in traditional colors, and others are bundled up in warm clothing, indicating a chilly environment.
A group of men and women sits in a sharing circle, talking intently under the large tent. The man leading the conversation gestures with his hands, while the others listen. The gathering is peaceful, with some people observing from a distance.

There was some beautiful singing after the session, which you can watch on the Elders Gathering – Rassemblement des aînés 2024 page. The sharing circles that followed were incredibly moving, with elders exchanging stories, comforting one another, and reconnecting in this sacred space.

A close-up selfie of Benjamin Jancewicz wearing a cap and a gold-colored hoodie. His beard is thick and graying, and his expression is neutral, with a slight smile.
A scene featuring a wide rainbow arcing over several tents in a camp. The tents are constructed with wooden frames and some are covered with tarps. A dark truck is parked nearby, and the sky is a mix of rain clouds and clearing blue patches.

I took a brief trip back to the village to shower, wash some clothes, and gather supplies. When I returned, the rain was easing up, and a giant rainbow arched across the tents.

A group of people sitting around a table in a large tent enjoying a meal together. Several take-out containers filled with lasagna are spread across the table. One person is giving a thumbs-up while holding a soda can, and a young woman in the foreground is eating. The atmosphere feels communal, with everyone taking a well-deserved break from their busy day.
Cheyenne, standing inside the large tent, smiling and holding a beautiful handmade phone bag. She is wearing a green hoodie with a colorful design that matches the bag’s feathers. Her sense of pride and joy is evident as she presents the gift, which she generously distributed to the workers. The tent in the background is set up for the event, with chairs and tables arranged.

Back at the main tent, all of us workers were treated to a lasagna lunch, a welcome break from the busy day. Cheyenne generously handed out handmade phone bags to the workers, and I received a beautiful one with feathers that matched my hoodie perfectly.

A woman wearing a green hoodie with colorful floral designs smiles warmly as she embraces a young boy sitting on her lap. The boy is bundled up in a black and tan jacket and wears a gray Carhartt beanie, smiling slightly. They are seated at a table inside a large tent with bright, natural light streaming in from the windows. The closeness and joy shared between them reflect the familial warmth and the importance of community at the elders' gathering.

Seeing so many children running around the gathering fills my heart with joy. It reminds me of the times I was brought to elders’ camps as a child—experiences that deepened my love for this community and continue to do so.

Inside a cozy Innu kitchen tent, four people sit around a table covered with a plastic tablecloth, enjoying a break. A man in a blue sweater gives a thumbs-up while another in a black jacket with glasses looks thoughtfully. To the right, a man in a black hoodie and cap sits with a hand on his chin, and a young girl with long dark hair in a black Champion sweatshirt looks off to the side. On the table are cookies, apples, a box of raisins, and other snacks. The tent's rustic wooden beams and tarps provide warmth and shelter, creating an atmosphere of shared stories and comfort.

While walking around the camp, I was approached by a man who asked, “You are Benjamin, aren’t you?” It turned out to be the father of Dan George, a childhood friend I hadn’t seen in decades. He brought me back to the Innu kitchen tent, where they treated me to hot tea and cookies as we reminisced about the old days.

A collapsed donation center tent in a gravel lot, with poles and fabric scattered by the wind. Behind it, there are other tents and a large field extending into the distance under a mostly cloudy sky.
A man wearing a blue knit hat and blue vest struggles to fold a large gray tarp in the wind, with an older woman in a purple dress and patterned shawl standing nearby. They are on a gravel lot with tents and utility poles visible in the background, and both seem to be working to salvage materials after the storm.

Later, I helped salvage what was left of the donation center that my parents had set up, which had been obliterated by the storm. We managed to save some of the structure and the tarp, which I ended up using for my tent. At one point, the wind almost blew my dad away as we worked to secure everything!

A stunning sunset over a camp with several white tents. The tents are supported by wooden poles, with branches extending from the structures. The sky is a mix of deep blue and purple hues, with clouds glowing orange from the setting sun. The scene feels serene and peaceful as the day transitions into night.
Two men are working together to secure wooden poles for a tent. One man, smiling, holds the crossbeam while the other secures the structure with yellow ropes. The scene takes place outdoors near a construction area, with portable buildings and vehicles in the background under the evening sky.

Though the wind was still strong, the storm eventually cleared, rewarding us with a bright and crisp sunset. More tents were going up, and there are still many elders yet to arrive.

A man in a blue knitted hat and camo jacket smiles as he sits in the front row of a gathering tent. A woman next to him hands him a purple knitted item, while others in the background watch attentively. Two men, one holding a microphone, stand nearby, preparing for an announcement.
A woman bends down to help another person adjust their socks and brightly colored moccasins. The person seated wears a green jacket and a plaid skirt, while people in the background observe and chat.
A Cree couple, Johnny and Louisa B. Saganash, stand side by side in the gathering tent, dressed warmly. The man wears a blue knitted hat and a large white sash over his green jacket, while the woman dons a purple hat and plaid skirt. They smile as they prepare for a traditional dance, surrounded by seated spectators.

Back at the main tent, we crowned the king and queen of the gathering—Johnny and Louisa B. Saganash, a Cree couple. They treated us to a traditional dance, which was much faster than the Naskapi style!

(Candlelight vigil in large tent): A wide view of a large gathering inside a tent, with rows of people seated in a circular formation around the perimeter. Everyone is holding a lit candle, illuminating the entire space in soft light. The atmosphere is solemn as they participate in a candlelight vigil.
(Candlelight vigil attendees close-up): A close-up of several individuals standing and holding lit candles, their faces illuminated by the warm candlelight. The expressions on their faces are reflective and focused, showing the emotional weight of the moment during the vigil.
(Johnny and Louisa B. Saganash holding candles): A close-up of Johnny and Louisa B. Saganash, an elder Cree couple, holding candles during the vigil. Johnny wears a camouflage jacket, and Louisa wears a purple knit hat and a scarf, both looking solemn and thoughtful.
(Guanish family members during the vigil): A group of women and one young girl, all standing side by side and holding lit candles during the vigil. One woman wipes her eyes as others stand with their heads bowed, reflecting on the loss of George Amos Guanish. The atmosphere is filled with quiet support and comfort.

We ended the day with a candlelight vigil for George Amos Guanish, who had passed away this morning. Julian Swappie-Thomas led a touching song, and Johnny and Louisa B. Saganash led everyone in comforting the Guanish family.

Inside a Naskapi tent, a metal stove is glowing with purple light from a fire within. Two large cooking pots sit on the ground in front of the stove, and birch logs are stacked to the side. The tent's interior is softly lit, with a blanket covering the entrance flap.
Three elderly Naskapi women sit together inside their tent, smiling gently at the camera. The one on the left wears an orange shirt, the middle elder wears a royal blue shirt, and the one on the right wears a light teal shirt. Behind them, the canvas of the tent walls forms a cozy backdrop. They are seated on a blanket-covered surface, sharing their presence and stories.

Afterwards, I spent some time visiting with the Naskapi Noohooms in their tent, listening to their stories of what life was like in the old days.

The Northern Lights (aurora borealis) shimmer across the night sky in green and purple hues. In the foreground, traditional Naskapi tents are visible, their canvas covers lit from within, with wooden supports silhouetted against the vibrant auroras.
Another view of the Northern Lights glowing bright green and purple above a row of traditional Naskapi tents, creating a mystical atmosphere. The tents' framework of wooden poles is outlined against the illuminated sky, adding to the scene's natural beauty.
The aurora borealis glows brightly in shades of green, casting an ethereal light over the camp. Naskapi tents stand in the foreground, their outlines stark against the celestial display, while a few lights from the camp area dot the background.

As I secured the salvaged tarp to my tent, the Northern Lights once again danced in the sky above me. I can’t help but feel deeply grateful to be here, surrounded by this land and these people.

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Church, Boughs, Tents, Geese, Stars, and Firewood

So.

Internet at the Ka Mamunuiitananuch Cultural Site ended up being a lot less cooperative than I expected, and I ended up having just enough time to upload the pictures for the Elder’s Gathering every day on social media… and very little else.

So, now I’m catching up with my journal posts. I couldn’t upload much video work on the Elder’s Gathering page either, so I’m editing videos and uploading them now. My computer also had issues, which I’ll get into.

But for now, my plan is to make posts covering 2-3 days, until I catch up with the present day. So here it goes!

Sun, Aug 25

Naskapi Elders: Three Naskapi women standing together outside. All three are wearing colorful headscarves – one red, one multicolored, and one yellow. They are smiling and standing closely together, one with her arm around the other two. Behind them, there are some trees and small buildings under a cloudy sky.
Inside St. John’s Anglican Church: The interior of a small church, with light-colored walls and wooden pews. People are standing, singing, or holding hymn books during a service. Several women dressed in white and purple shawls stand in the foreground. A few other attendees are seated in the pews, while a minister in white robes with a green belt moves down the aisle.

Today started with a peaceful morning at St. John’s Anglican Church in Kawawachikamach. It was wonderful to see some of the Noohooms from the Elders Gathering outside, enjoying the quiet start to the day.

A rugged side-by-side vehicle parked on a gravel lot in front of a building with brown wood siding. The vehicle, a Yamaha Rhino with a camouflage paint job, has visible dirt on its tires and body. There is a white door on the side of the building in the background, along with a few windows and a satellite dish. A couple of green trash bins are also visible near the building. The sky is partly cloudy with patches of blue.

The Naskapi Nation has been generous enough to let me use a side-by-side vehicle to get around, and I’m incredibly grateful for it. I get a little dirty, but that’s all part of the experience out here. In the summer, the dust is everywhere no matter what you drive.

A close-up shot of a serving of caribou stew inside a takeout container lined with aluminum foil. The stew contains large chunks of tender caribou meat, potatoes, carrots, and peas, all immersed in a savory broth. The rustic presentation showcases a hearty, traditional dish, highlighting its rich, homemade quality. The background features a plain, light-colored table surface, with part of a red soda can visible on the right side of the image.

For lunch, I had in one of my absolute favorite dishes—caribou stew, prepared by the cooks at the Naskapi Kitchen.

A Naskapi woman is seen holding a bright red chainsaw, working at the base of a spruce tree. She's wearing gloves and safety gear while cutting down the spruce boughs. Behind her, the forest is dense, and orange-tinged needles show signs of early fall.
A woman, smiling, carries a large bag of spruce boughs on her shoulder through a forest. She wears glasses and black clothing, with the surrounding landscape full of lush green moss and trees.
A woman standing in a forest, holding freshly cut spruce boughs in her arms. She is smiling and surrounded by conifer trees and a mossy forest floor.
Four women standing on a gravel road, holding various tools, including chainsaws and axes. They pose proudly in front of a truck filled with spruce boughs, with a cloudy sky and forest in the background.
A bearded Benjamin Jancewicz, wearing a cap and hoodie, uses a chainsaw to cut a spruce tree in the forest. He focuses on the task as small branches fall away from the cut.

Afterward, I spent some time photographing Naskapi women as they gathered spruce boughs for the elders. At one point, they handed me a chainsaw to help out, which I happily did—though I didn’t realize I was getting my picture taken too!

A man wearing a green "Wrangler" T-shirt and blue baseball cap is seen carrying a sturdy wooden pole as part of tent setup. In the background, another man wearing protective sunglasses and gloves is assisting with the assembly of a canvas tent supported by wooden poles, while other tents and a white pavilion stand under a cloudy sky.
A young Naskapi man is playfully flexing his biceps and smiling for the camera. He is wearing a bright yellow "The North Face" T-shirt and a black baseball cap with a New York Yankees logo. Behind him, a campsite is in progress with white tents arranged in rows.
A Naskapi man, dressed in a black Under Armour T-shirt, is seen using an auger to drill holes in the ground next to a traditional canvas tent. The man concentrates on the task as he works to secure the tent structure. Behind him, various tools and tents are scattered across the camp.

The men were also busy, drilling holes and trimming tent poles to set up tents for the elders.

A row of traditional tents set up by the Naskapi, framed by wooden poles tied together with rope. The ground is covered in spruce boughs, and the tents are arranged in a linear formation, creating a clear path between them. The sky is overcast, giving the scene a muted, natural tone. The tents, made of off-white canvas, are part of a camp set up for the elders.
Another view of the camp, showing more traditional tents lined up in rows. The tents have wooden frames and white canvas walls, some covered by blue tarps for additional protection. The tents create a neat pathway in the middle, with logs and supplies scattered around the camp. The cloudy sky adds to the rustic feel of the camp setup.

It’s amazing to see entire streets created by rows of traditional tents.

A woman wearing a light gray cardigan stands in front of a wooden table, holding a goose in her hands as she prepares to burn the feathers off with a blowtorch. She is focused on the task, wearing black gloves for protection. Behind her, another woman, also holding a blowtorch, works on another goose at the same table. The ground around them is dirt and there are picnic tables in the background. The setting is outdoors, with a lake and forest visible in the distance under an overcast sky. Various supplies and tools are scattered around the workspace, with partially feathered geese on the table.

Behind the Big Tent, I helped Alexandria burn the feathers off of some geese. I learned how to do this when I was young, using a campfire, but we used a blowtorch instead due to the risk of forest fires. The scent of the burning feathers brought me back.

A side view of a large black Can-Am side-by-side utility vehicle parked on a dirt area surrounded by tall grass and trees. The vehicle is muddy from off-road use and features large rugged tires and a cargo bed in the back. The background includes a partially constructed building with Tyvek wrap and metal roofing, indicating an outdoor rural setting.

Later in the day, Martha-Joanne took me out in her boyfriend’s new ride to gather supplies from Kachikayach Lake for her grandmother Norma’s tent. She was kind enough to lend me a mattress and blankets so I could stay warm in my own tent.

A panoramic view of Kachikayach Lake under a partly cloudy sky. The water is still, reflecting the clouds above, and the distant shoreline is visible, creating a tranquil scene. On both sides of the frame, green bushes and trees line the edges of the lake, while a small section of rocky shoreline is visible in the foreground. The horizon stretches across the middle of the image, with rolling hills in the distance.

Kachikayach is such a peaceful and grounding place, I miss our cabin there.

A wide-angle shot of a vibrant sunset over the tent village. In the foreground, the Naskapi flag flutters in the breeze, and a row of trucks is parked. The sky is awash with purples, oranges, and reds as the sun dips below the horizon, casting a warm glow over the rows of white traditional tents.
Another wide-angle drone shot of the tent village at sunset. The sky is filled with dramatic, colorful clouds, and the village below shows a peaceful scene with tents organized into neat rows. Trucks are scattered throughout the area, and the horizon stretches endlessly into the darkening forest.
A breathtaking sunset bathes the sky in vivid shades of red, orange, and purple. Silhouetted against the dramatic sky are traditional Naskapi tents supported by wooden poles. A Naskapi flag stands tall amidst the tents, swaying gently in the evening breeze. The horizon is lined with the silhouettes of trees, completing this peaceful, vibrant scene.

As we made our way back, the sun began to set and I flew my drone to capture the stunning colors of the sky as it dipped below the horizon.

A faint green glow from the Northern Lights spreads across the dark night sky above a silhouette of thin, towering trees in a remote forest. The sky is dotted with stars, adding to the magical atmosphere of the scene.
The greenish glow of the Northern Lights can be seen in the starry night sky above Naskapi tents, framed by tall, rustic wooden poles supporting the tents' structures. The tents have blue tops, adding a pop of color to the nighttime landscape.
A magnificent view of the night sky filled with thousands of stars and the Milky Way stretching across the horizon. The dark sky is speckled with clusters of distant stars, creating a sense of wonder and vastness.

The day ended with a moment of awe as I watched the Northern Lights dance across the sky. There’s something indescribably special about living in a place where you can casually look up and see the entire universe unfold above you.

I feel so lucky to have spent the whole day working on the land I love with the people I love.

Mon, Aug 26

A close-up selfie of Benjamin Jancewicz with a gray beard, wearing a light pink shirt. The background reveals a rugged landscape of wild plants, tree stumps, and logs, indicating a natural or forested area. The man has a calm expression and the sun is shining, casting a soft light across his face.
A shallow, clear lake with sunlight illuminating the rocks and pebbles at the bottom. The water ripples gently, creating a textured surface while maintaining visibility of the submerged, sandy-colored stones below.

I’ve come to really appreciate my mornings by Hanas Lake. There’s something so grounding and peaceful about starting the day in such a calm place. It centers me and helps me focus on the tasks ahead.

A plate of homemade breakfast consisting of scrambled eggs with melted cheese, crispy bacon, and two slices of buttered toast. The meal is set on a beige plate, resting on a gray and white patterned tablecloth. This breakfast was prepared after a return trip to Kawawachikamach for a shower and some quiet time.

There wasn’t any breakfast at the camp this morning, so I rode back to Kawawachikamach to take a good shower and make myself some breakfast.

A wiskichak (gray jay) is captured mid-flight, wings outstretched, as it flies toward a tent pole. The wooden tent structure and nearby tents are visible, set against a cloudy sky. The bird is believed to bring good luck.

As soon as I returned to the camp, a Wiskichak visited the camp, perching on my tent, and then on my neighbors. I’ve been told that these birds are good luck, and that good hunters would always leave a little bit of food out for them.

A man is standing in a large metal container filled with chopped firewood, holding a log in his hands. In the foreground, the back of a side-by-side vehicle is filled with more split firewood, ready for distribution. The scene is outdoors, under a partly cloudy sky, with another truck visible in the background. Benjamin Jancewicz is helping load and distribute firewood to various people at the camp.

Much of the camp needed firewood, so I spent most of the day helping people load up and distribute it. There’s something satisfying about contributing to the warmth and comfort of the camp, even in such a simple way.

Image of a person smiling while cleaning fish at the Naskapi Kitchen: A person wearing a light brown hoodie with "The North Face" printed on it smiles while cleaning a fish at the Naskapi Kitchen. Two others beside her work on preparing birds. In the foreground are large trays of fresh fish and birds awaiting preparation.
Image of two women cleaning fish and birds: Two women are focused on preparing food. One woman on the left is cleaning birds while wearing a pink shirt with a towel draped around her neck. The other woman is on the right wearing glasses, a plaid dress, and blue gloves as she works with a bird.
Image of an elder preparing meat in the Naskapi Kitchen: An elder sits at a table cutting a large piece of meat. In front of her are trays filled with chunks of caribou. She looks calmly into the camera, with kitchen supplies visible in the background.

Because I need both power and a strong internet connection for my work, they set me up in the Naskapi Kitchen. It’s a good spot—not only because of the resources, but because I’m surrounded by the warmth and delicious smells of people preparing great food.

Benjamin Jancewicz's father, Bill Jancewicz, stands on a stage inside the big tent, leading a prayer alongside Maggie Mokoush-Swappie. They are dressed in traditional clothing, with Bill wearing a vest with colorful detailing, and Maggie holding a phone to read from. In the background, evergreen trees and traditional garments decorate the stage.
A second photo showing Bill Jancewicz and Maggie Mokoush-Swappie standing side by side on the stage. Bill reads from a phone while Maggie looks on thoughtfully. The soft sunlight filters through the tent, highlighting their traditional clothing and the peaceful atmosphere inside the big tent.

My dad, Bill Jancewicz, and Maggie Mokoush-Swappie led prayers and singing in the big tent today. Hearing their voices lift in prayer and song, with the camp growing quiet to listen, was a touching moment.

Image of an elder man in a gray shirt and a "Bass Pro Shops" hat: A close-up photo of a smiling elder man sitting outside a log cabin. He is wearing sunglasses, a gray polo shirt, and a watch. The warm sunlight casts soft shadows on the wooden wall behind him.
Two Naskapi elder women sitting together outside a log cabin: Two Naskapi elder women, one in a red jacket and the other in a navy-blue jacket and headscarf, sit together on a wooden bench outside a log cabin. They are bathed in golden sunlight, smiling softly as they enjoy the late afternoon.
A young woman and an elder woman laughing together: A joyful moment captured as a young woman in a black shirt sits with an elderly woman who is laughing, wearing a gray sweater and purple pants. They sit on a bench outside a log cabin with the name "Kitty" engraved on a sign above.

More elders were moving into the camp, and Naskapi elders occupied the 5 cabins surrounding the Big Tent.

A woman wearing a brown shirt concentrates as she uses a knife to clean a fish. She’s standing inside a white tent with plastic chairs in the background.
A second woman in a gray zip-up jacket and black bandana works alongside the first, carefully slicing a large fish, with a younger woman sitting in the background.
A container filled with cleaned fish, including large fillets and whole fish, with some salmon pieces arranged on the side, ready for cooking or further preparation.

Some elders stopped by the kitchen to offer advice and tips to the younger women who were cooking.

The sun sets behind a horizon of tents at the Naskapi camp, casting a warm golden light across the sky. The tents are framed by wooden poles, and a sign reading 'Magic English' is visible on one of them. The sky is filled with wispy clouds painted with soft hues of yellow, orange, and purple as the day transitions into evening. People gather around the tents, with some sitting and talking in the foreground, enjoying the peaceful atmosphere of the sunset.

Meanwhile, families were settling into their tents, preparing beds and visiting areas for the evening ahead.

Natush Peastitute stands in front of a white tent at the Naskapi camp during sunset. He is wearing a black jacket and a baseball cap, looking directly at the camera with a calm expression. Behind him, the sun is setting, casting a warm golden glow across the sky, with soft clouds illuminated by the fading light. The camp's tents and poles are visible in the background, and the scene captures the peaceful yet industrious atmosphere of the camp where Natush has been working hard for over a week, building platforms and setting up beds for the elders.

I’ve also noticed how hard workers like Natush Peastitute have been working. They’ve been here for over a week, building platforms, setting up beds, and installing tents for the elders. The level of dedication is inspiring.

A colorful sunset over the camp with tents and wooden poles visible in silhouette. The sky is filled with vibrant shades of orange, pink, and purple as the sun sets behind the trees on the horizon. The camp is peaceful and quiet, with tents glowing softly in the fading light.
A close-up of a Naskapi woman in an orange shirt standing at a table with cut-up cantaloupe in hand. She holds half of the melon, showing its orange flesh while smiling warmly at the camera. She is wearing blue gloves and working in a kitchen space with food supplies in the background.
Two Naskapi women stand side by side, one cutting a pineapple and the other slicing oranges into small wedges. Both wear protective gloves and work on a large plastic board in the camp kitchen. The table is filled with fruits and bags of orange slices, with kitchen supplies stacked behind them.
A Naskapi elder in a pink shirt sits at a table chopping vegetables with a large knife. The table is covered with foil pans full of cubed vegetables, and she appears focused on her work. The background shows the interior of the camp kitchen with stacked food supplies and kitchen equipment.
A group of Naskapi women in the kitchen, preparing food. Two of the women, one in an orange shirt and the other in a plaid top, smile while chopping various fruits and vegetables. They work amidst stacks of food supplies in the camp kitchen, surrounded by plastic containers, knives, and other kitchen tools.

As dusk began to fall, the camp slowed down, becoming softer and quieter. But the work in the kitchen wasn’t over yet! The ladies there were already busy preparing breakfast for the next day. While preparing cantaloupe, I couldn’t help but laugh when someone said, “This is just like butchering a seal!” Only in the North could you hear something like that!

The bright half-moon glows through a slightly cloudy night sky, illuminating tents covered in tarps and tree branch poles. The dark forest background adds to the serene nighttime atmosphere.
A breathtaking night sky filled with stars, with traditional tents below, illuminated softly. The campfire's glow in the background adds a warm light, while the sky remains clear and star-filled.
The moon shines brightly in the night sky, surrounded by stars. Tents, supported by tree branches, are dimly lit from within, offering a peaceful scene against the vast Northern sky.

By the time the half-moon rose, the stars were putting on a spectacular show, undimmed by the moonlight.

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The elders of the Innu Nation reflect on future generations – Sylvie Ambroise – Le Nord-Cotier

An aerial view of a large campsite at sunset shows rows of white tents spread across a vast open area. Trucks are parked near the tents, and a central road divides the camp. The sun is setting in the distance, casting a warm orange and yellow glow over the forest that surrounds the camp. The sky is filled with dramatic clouds, creating a peaceful yet majestic scene. The logo in the bottom right corner indicates the event is associated with the Naskapi.
An aerial view of a large campsite at sunset shows rows of white tents spread across a vast open area. Trucks are parked near the tents, and a central road divides the camp. The sun is setting in the distance, casting a warm orange and yellow glow over the forest that surrounds the camp. The sky is filled with dramatic clouds, creating a peaceful yet majestic scene. The logo in the bottom right corner indicates the event is associated with the Naskapi.

Photo Benjamin Jancewicz, photographe pour la nation Naskapis de Kawawachikamach

From August 26 to September 4, about fifteen communities gathered for a total of about 500 people. The dean of the group is from the community of Pakua-Shipu. Her name is Henriette Vollant, and she is 92 years old.

There are 170 tents erected on the site. Each community has a kitchen, and people cook three meals daily for the elderly. They live without water or electricity but can access the internet thanks to Sichun, an internet service company of three communities, the Naskapi, Matimekush/Lac-John, and Uashat mak Mani-utenam.

The Gathering of Elders is an annual activity of the Innu and Naskapi nations. This year’s novelty is the integration of the Atikamekws, whose participation is the first for them. They are represented by 37 people from the three Atikamekw communities.

“I am very happy to be here; I love the openness and brotherhood we have here with the Innu and the Naskapis,” says Hervé Ottawa, a companion of the Wemotaci community.

These nations can speak about their concerns and aspirations for generations to follow. Joyce Echaquan’s event unites them.

“Many people talk to me about what is happening in each of their communities, in their respective hospitals; they live from discrimination,” says Debby Flamand, organizer of the trip.

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The Gathering of Elders in Kawawachikamach commemorates pioneer Alexandre McKenzie – Paul Fontaine – Radio Canada

A campsite with multiple white tents is spread out over a flat area, surrounded by a forest of evergreen trees. The sunset paints the sky in vibrant hues of orange and yellow, casting a warm glow over the camp. Trucks are parked around the tents, and a few people are walking in the camp, preparing for the evening. The scene captures the peacefulness of the camp as the day comes to a close.
A campsite with multiple white tents is spread out over a flat area, surrounded by a forest of evergreen trees. The sunset paints the sky in vibrant hues of orange and yellow, casting a warm glow over the camp. Trucks are parked around the tents, and a few people are walking in the camp, preparing for the evening. The scene captures the peacefulness of the camp as the day comes to a close.

PHOTO: BENJAMIN JOSEPH JANCEWICZ

https://ici.radio-canada.ca/nouvelle/2100551/innu-naskapi-aines-culture-rassemblement

The annual Gathering of Elders, held in Kawawachikamach this year, honors the memory of Innu politician and pioneer Alexandre McKenzie, who passed away in May. For over 25 years, this event has brought together hundreds of Aboriginal people from Quebec and Labrador to celebrate seniors and the transmission of Aboriginal culture.

The Ka Mamunuiitananuch cultural site, situated between Schefferville and Kawawachikamach, was transformed for the occasion with the installation of over 150 tents and shaputuan to host the event’s activities, running from August 26 to September 4. The Gathering features songs, dances, craft workshops, and discussion circles focused on mental health, substance abuse, bereavement, traditional medicine, and caribou.

In addition to cultural celebrations, the Gathering serves as a platform for remembering Alexandre McKenzie’s legacy, especially his work in promoting Aboriginal traditions. The event features performances by Innu artists, with the group Maten from Mani-utenam closing the event. Nearly 350 participants arrived in Kawawachikamach via the Tshiuetin train, which connects Schefferville and Sept-Îles, with the Tshakapesh Institute—founded by McKenzie—helping fly in several elders to attend.

This year’s event welcomes delegations from the Cree and Atikamekw nations for the first time, along with dignitaries, families, and young people. Students from Jimmy Sandy Memorial Elementary School in Kawawachikamach also performed a traditional dance show. Next year, the Gathering will be hosted by Mashteuiatsh in Lac-Saint-Jean.

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Kawawachikamach hosts the Gathering of Innu and Naskapis Elders – Jean St-Pierre – Ma Cote Nord

Kawawachikamach accueille le Rassemblement des Aînés innus et naskapis
A campsite with numerous white tents and several parked vehicles stretches out under a dramatic sunset. The sky is a mix of dark clouds and vibrant colors from the setting sun. A flag in the foreground flutters in the wind, while the surrounding area appears to be a remote location with sparse trees on the horizon.
The Ka Mamunuiitananuch cultural site has been developed to accommodate more than 300 people. Photo by Benjamin Jancewicz

The annual gathering of the Innu Nation’s 2024 seniors is taking place for the first time in Naskapian land. The event opened this Tuesday morning with a tribute to the late Alexandre McKenzie, from Matimekush.

About 300 people from nine Innu communities in Quebec and two in Labrador landed yesterday by train and plane in the Schefferville area for this large gathering. It also hosts a delegation of the Atikamekw Nation. The chefs and several other leaders join the festivities.

Many conferences, training workshops, religious ceremonies, discussion tables and shows are on the program over 10 days. Each year, the gathering offers opportunities for reunion and to reconnect with certain traditions.

175 tents on an exceptional site

The organizers chose the cultural site of Ka Mamunuiitananuch, in the middle of nature. This burnt forest site is particularly special, with easy access to water and the forest that is starting to grow back. Bushes loaded with blueberries, tea and medicinal plants abound around the site.

The Elders gathering has been organized for a month. More than 175 tents have been set up, with several amenities for the comfort and safety of the Elders.

This is the 28th Gathering of Seniors, which will continue until September 4. The 2023 one took place at Unamen Shipu in Basse-Côte-Nord.

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From a City to a Campsite

The past few days have been a whirlwind, and because of a rockslide on the railway between Sept-Iles and Schefferville, the connection has been spotty.

So, let’s catch up!

Thursday, August 22:

I stopped at my friend Jeff’s house in upstate New York. Jeff’s place is a gorgeous cabin-style home nestled on the side of a mountain, right next to a babbling stream. The inside of his home is just as beautiful, with deep, dark wood and stained glass everywhere. It’s always a treat to stay there, and it’s the perfect halfway point between Baltimore and Montreal.

The image shows a cozy, sunlit corner of a living room. Sunlight streams through three large windows, casting warm light onto the hardwood floor and illuminating the room. A comfortable wooden armchair with a red cushion and a floral-patterned pillow is positioned near the windows, with a matching footstool in front of it. Next to the chair is a wooden side table holding a tall, leafy houseplant and a Tiffany-style lamp with a stained-glass shade. Books are stacked on the table and neatly arranged on the lower shelf. The room has a warm, inviting atmosphere, with natural light enhancing the earthy tones of the wooden furniture and the decorative area rug with a floral pattern that partially covers the floor. The overall scene evokes a sense of calm and comfort, ideal for reading or relaxing.

My journey began with a smooth drive through the Adirondacks to Montreal. The weather was perfect—cool breezes and clear skies made the lush, green mountains more breathtaking. Every time I pass through the Adirondacks, I feel I could stay there forever.

As much as I enjoyed the scenic drive, it wasn’t without a bit of drama. While cruising through the Adirondacks, I noticed a state trooper ahead who had pulled someone over. I knew I had to move over to give him space, but a Jeep tailgating me in the left lane refused to let me over. I finally squeezed into the middle of the road to get around the trooper, but about a half mile later, I got pulled over myself. I tried to explain to the officer that I’d attempted to move over, and after reviewing my dashcam footage together, he let me go with a warning. I’m glad he let me go, but most especially since I’ve worked on public service announcements about the Move Over law for the Baltimore City Department of Transportation.

The image is a selfie taken inside a car, showing the driver's side. The person in the photo, partially visible on the right side, has a full beard, wears round glasses, and is dressed in a black shirt with a bold, leafy yellow pattern. They are wearing a seatbelt, and their expression appears to be serious or neutral. In the background, through the rear window of the car, a state trooper's vehicle with flashing red lights is visible, indicating that the car has been pulled over. The surrounding area outside the car suggests a rural location, likely in the Adirondacks, with trees and a cloudy sky in the distance. The interior of the car shows part of the roof, a rearview mirror, and the edge of a sunroof.

When I reached Montreal, it was around 5:30 PM, just in time to pick up Marilyne from work. Navigating Montreal’s rush hour traffic is never fun, but with Marilyne beside me, we managed.

The image captures a vibrant sunset as seen from the Holiday Inn in Montreal. The sun is low on the horizon, glowing a deep red-orange as it sets behind a line of trees. The sky is a mix of warm oranges and reds with patches of soft gray clouds. Power lines stretch horizontally across the upper part of the image, adding an urban element to the scene. Below, a road and some greenery are visible, partially lit by the remaining daylight. The overall scene blends the beauty of nature with the everyday elements of the city.

We checked into our hotel near the airport, where I parked Pishu, and then we went down to the hotel restaurant for dinner. Unfortunately, the meal was a bit of a letdown. We waited over an hour for our plates, and when they finally arrived, the food was dry and overcooked. The staff wasn’t very attentive, even though the restaurant wasn’t busy.

The image shows a woman, identified as Marilyne, smiling warmly while seated at a table during a dinner date. She is wearing glasses and a colorful, patterned dress with shades of blue, red, yellow, and white. Marilyne is holding a smartphone in her hands, resting them on the table. Behind her is a decorative black screen with intricate cut-out designs, which contrasts with the warm wood paneling of the restaurant’s interior. The atmosphere appears cozy and intimate, highlighting the special moment between her and the person she’s with on this dinner date.

Still, we made the best of it, playing games and enjoying each other’s company. Afterward, we headed back upstairs and watched a bit of the DNC and The 3 Body Problem before heading to sleep.

The image is a close-up selfie of a couple, Marilyne and Benjamin Jancewicz, lying together and smiling at the camera. Marilyne is on the left, with her head resting on her hand, wearing glasses and a colorful, patterned outfit in shades of blue, red, yellow, and white. Benjamin is on the right, also wearing glasses, with a full beard and a content expression. The photo captures a moment of closeness and warmth between the two, reflecting their connection and affection for each other.

Friday, August 23:

This morning was a little hectic. Because I didn’t have my full-size suitcase, I had to get creative with my luggage. I was afraid of getting in trouble like I had last time because of all the batteries, drones, and cameras I traveled with. Marilyne reminded me to relax, we kissed goodbye, and I made it on my shuttle on time.

The image shows an exterior view of Montreal's airport terminal at dawn or dusk, with the sky overcast and the horizon glowing faintly with a hint of sunrise or sunset. The terminal building on the left features large glass windows reflecting the scene, with a curved glass canopy above the sidewalk. A prominent red and white sign on the building reads "Bienvenue / Welcome" in both French and English. Several vehicles are parked or moving along the curved road leading to the terminal entrance, and construction cranes are visible in the background, indicating ongoing development. The scene is calm, with a few people visible near the entrance, emphasizing the typical airport atmosphere.

The airport was pretty empty. When checking my luggage, I told the handler that one of the bags was full of equipment. She was no problem and sent me to the oversized section. They scanned it, gave it a special tag, and sent me on my way—easier than I thought!

The image shows a set of backpacks and luggage bins being processed through an airport's baggage handling system. Two large backpacks are placed inside gray plastic bins on a conveyor belt, ready for checking. One bag is black, and the other is gray with visible straps and padding. A partially visible airport worker, identifiable by a neon yellow safety vest with reflective orange stripes, stands to the left. The setting is industrial, with metal surfaces and yellow and black safety tape lining the edge of the conveyor belt, creating a typical airport baggage handling scene.

I wound through the airport and made it to the northern traveler wing. It always gives me a strange feeling. The wind is very out-of-the-way, poorly maintained and cleaned, and always gives me segregation vibes. The majority of passengers in this part of the airport are indigenous.

The image shows a long, empty airport corridor leading to gates 17-34, with two parallel moving walkways running down the center of the hall. The walls are white with a tiled texture, and the floor is speckled in shades of brown. Overhead, a sign displays gate numbers and symbols indicating accessible routes, no smoking, and no mobile phones. The walkways are lit by ceiling lights, creating a bright but slightly sterile atmosphere. The corridor appears to stretch far into the distance, with no visible people or activity, emphasizing the emptiness and quiet of the space.

I stopped at La Brasseur for a quick breakfast. Adnan, the head of the Naskapi telecom company Sichuun, was at the gate, heading up to do some work. They have outfitted the entire Elder’s Gathering site with WiFi for all the visitors coming. This is great for me because I’m hoping to upload lots of photos and videos the entire time.

After many hours and ups and downs from Montreal to Quebec City to Sept-Iles, I finally landed in Schefferville.

As soon as I got my baggage, Stella and Naomi took me out to the Elder’s gathering site! I took lots of photos, make sure you follow the page to see them all.

When I arrived, the camp was already buzzing with activity. I spent the day capturing photos, including drone shots of the entire site, which I plan to use to create a map later. It’s incredible to see how much the camp has grown, with more tents popping up as people arrive.

As the day turned to night, a stunning blood-red moon rose above the camp. It was a beautiful and surreal way to end the day.

A breathtaking scene of a dark, serene forest under the night sky. The focal point of the image is a large, blood-red moon glowing intensely against the pitch-black sky. The moon's striking color contrasts with the dark outlines of the tall pine trees in the background, creating a dramatic and eerie atmosphere. In the foreground, the dense underbrush, fallen logs, and scattered branches are illuminated just enough to show their texture, adding depth and mystery to the scene. The overall mood is one of quiet, almost otherworldly stillness, as nature seems to be in deep slumber under the haunting red moonlight.

I’m spent the night in a cozy little tent that the organizers let me use, bundled up under two blankets. The night air is brisk, but the blankets are warm, and I’m looking forward to tomorrow.

A small tent set up in a rustic, outdoor setting at night. The tent is constructed with a frame of wooden poles, tied together with rope, and covered with white canvas. The tent flap is open, revealing a simple interior with a wooden platform bed, covered in a black and white checkered blanket. The tent is illuminated by an outside light, casting a warm glow on the dirt ground and the structure itself. The dark blue night sky in the background contrasts with the bright tent, while other similar tents and a flagpole are faintly visible in the distance, adding to the feeling of being at a remote camp. The shadows of the poles and the tent's structure create patterns on the ground, contributing to the atmosphere of a quiet, solitary night in the wilderness.

Saturday, August 24:

I woke up this morning after a solid night’s sleep, feeling refreshed and ready for the day. The cool night air helped me sleep well, and despite my tent lacking a stove, I stayed warm under the blankets.

A view from inside a tent, looking up at the canvas roof. The fabric of the tent is illuminated by soft, natural light from outside, casting a warm glow across the interior. The canvas has a few faint stains and marks, giving it a well-used, rustic appearance. Visible at the bottom of the frame is part of a person wrapped in a black and white checkered blanket, lying down on a bed or sleeping surface. The simplicity of the scene conveys a peaceful, early morning or quiet moment inside the tent, with the gentle light filtering through the canvas walls. The tent's structure is supported by ropes and poles, which can be seen faintly through the fabric.

The camp was already alive with activity when I woke up, but I took a moment to walk down to the lake to pray, meditate, and prepare mentally for the day.

A tranquil scene of a clear, shallow lake with its bottom visible through the water. The water is calm, with gentle ripples, reflecting the deep blue sky above. The foreground shows sandy textures and a few scattered branches submerged just beneath the water's surface. Along the shore, lush green shrubs and plants extend into the frame. In the background, a dense forest of tall evergreen trees lines the opposite shore, standing against the horizon under a wide, cloudless sky. A small, faint moon can be seen in the vast expanse of blue sky, adding a serene, peaceful atmosphere to the scene.

Breakfast was simple but perfect—fresh blueberries from the bushes around the campsite. There’s nothing quite like the taste of wild blueberries in the morning.

A close-up image of a hand gently holding a small collection of freshly picked wild blueberries. The blueberries are a deep blue with some showing a slight frost-like coating, typical of wild berries. The background shows a rocky terrain, with light-colored stones and sparse vegetation, indicating that these berries were likely foraged in a natural, rugged setting. The hand appears slightly cupped, cradling the berries, with sunlight casting shadows and highlighting the texture of the skin and the natural beauty of the berries.

Throughout the day, I followed the workers around the site, documenting their progress with my camera so that we could share updates on the Elders Gathering Facebook page.

A man carrying a large, flat sheet of plywood on his shoulder while walking on a dirt path. The man appears to be wearing a dark T-shirt and pants, with glasses on his face. He is gripping the edge of the plywood with both hands to stabilize it as he walks. The background shows a construction area with makeshift structures made of wood and canvas, indicating a setting where temporary shelters are being built. The sky is clear and blue, and the sunlight casts strong shadows on the ground, highlighting the effort and manual labor involved in the task.

As I walked, I was accompanied by a sweet Rez dog named Myles, who decided to stick by my side. It was comforting to have him with me.

A close-up image of a dog being gently petted on the head by a hand. The dog has a dark, brindle-colored coat with patches of lighter fur. The dog’s eyes are closed, appearing content and relaxed under the person’s touch. The person’s hand, visible in the frame, is positioned gently on top of the dog’s head, suggesting a moment of affection and bonding. The background shows a dirt surface, possibly an outdoor setting, with the edge of the person's pants visible in the lower left corner of the frame.

My parents also visited the site today to manage a donation booth for the many tribes gathering here. The sense of community and generosity is wonderful, and it’s heartwarming to see everyone coming together.

A man stands under a white canopy tent on a sunny day, holding a large black sign with the word "DONATION" painted in white letters. He has a long beard, is wearing a black cap, and smiles as he poses for the photo. Several boxes are placed on the ground next to him, possibly containing donated items. The background shows a fenced area with some equipment visible in the distance.

The camp continues to grow as more people arrive. I flew my drone again this morning to update the map I’m creating in Illustrator, but by evening, there were already at least 20 more tents set up. And with three charter planes arriving tomorrow, the camp is set to grow even more.

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A night with the Moon and a day on the Road


Today’s drive was absolutely gorgeous. The weather was perfect—cool, breezy, and sunny at around 22°C. It’s interesting; I learned that this temperature is what it’s like year-round in the Canary Islands. Now I’m thinking I might like to visit there someday.

I woke up naturally this morning, feeling refreshed after a good night’s sleep. It was a much-needed rest, especially after staying up late packing. Packing has always been a task that seems simple until you’re in the middle of it, distracted by a million other things. Marilyne was on the phone with me, helping me stay on track and reminding me of the little things I might forget. Given how often I travel, I’m seriously considering just keeping certain luggage packed—it might save me some of the hassle next time.

Last night, as the packing wore on, I decided to take a break from packing and stepped outside to capture the supermoon. Lunar photography hasn’t always been my strong suit—my shots tend to come out blurry or overexposed. But last night, I spent some time under the moonlight, reading up on techniques, and finally managed to get a shot I’m proud of. It felt good to take the time, focus, and see it pay off.

After finishing my packing this morning, I managed to get on the road before noon. I had hoped to pick up my suitcase and a pair of rubber boots from the dry cleaners—items I dropped off over a month ago after Auta had an accident on them. After weeks of not hearing back from them despite my calls, they finally called three hours into my drive to say my things were ready. A little too late. I told them I’d pick everything up after my trip, but it was frustrating considering how long I had waited.

The drive itself was smooth for the most part. Traffic was light, and I had plenty of time to enjoy the scenery. I did see a pretty rough motorcycle accident on the opposite side of the road, which gave me pause. I’ve thought about getting a new motorcycle now and then, but I’m not so sure after my last crash in 2019. It brought back memories of another accident I had years ago when I was still in college. That one was serious, too—my bike hit a concrete guardrail, and I ended up in the emergency room. Thankfully, I made a full recovery both times, but seeing that accident today made me rethink the idea of getting back on a bike. I wrote about the first accident in a blog post and shared my experience with the more recent one in a Twitter thread.

The best part of the day was reaching Jeff’s house in upstate New York. Jeff’s a good friend I met on Twitter years ago, and he’s been kind enough to offer me a place to stay halfway between Baltimore and Montreal. Breaking up the trip like this makes it so much more manageable. He made an incredible dinner—chicken, rice, and Brussels sprouts—and we spent the evening laughing and watching TV shows and movies. Moments like these make me grateful for the friends I have in my life.