Thu, Aug 29
I’ve found that my days go better if I start by the water. There’s something so peaceful and grounding about being near the lake, especially here, where the air is likely the cleanest I’ll ever breathe. I make it a point to take deep breaths and soak it all in—this air feels like a gift.
Everywhere I look, the land is full of patterns that remind me of the designs Naskapi people paint on their coats and sew into their beadwork. It’s like nature itself reflecting back on the culture.
Different communities have been holding mass daily, which is a beautiful thing to witness. You get to see how different Nations approach spirituality, each unique yet united in spirit.
Back at the Naskapi Kitchen, Noah Swappie was busy setting up a tent for his mother. Because some of the workers have been grieving, we’ve been a bit short-staffed, but Noah is a pro—he had the tent up in no time.
This morning, I had the pleasure of sharing breakfast with Johnny and Louisa B. Saganash. I’ve been learning so much from them about Cree communities, and our conversations have been deeply enriching.
That afternoon, we gathered for a memorial to honor the memory of elder Alexandre “Napess” McKenzie, who tragically went through the ice this spring. A group of us gathered Derek Jeremy’s cabin, and from there, we took boats to the site of the accident.
Wapen invited me and Anaïs, a photographer from Innu Takuaikan Uashat mak Mani-utenam, to join him in the first boat. The waters of Kachikayach (Iron Arm Lake) were particularly shallow this year due to the lack of rain. Shundy had put out floats near Second Water to help avoid the larger rocks.
Despite the low water levels, we made good time, and along the way, we spotted a magnificent Golden Eagle perched on one of the outcrops.
As the sun began to dip low, I snapped a photo of Wapen navigating the rocks. Always one for dark humor, he had joked earlier that he couldn’t swim because “there’s no money in it.” I told him I’d use the photo on his memorial card when he drowns. We laughed, trying to remain lighthearted on such a serious mission.
The memorial took place on a beautiful spit of land that juts into the lake, making the area particularly shallow. This is where Alexandre’s snowmobile had gone through the ice earlier this year. Wapen took a private moment for himself—he was the first one on the scene that tragic day.
The men quickly mounted a cross on the stump of a tree that had been felled, and the brush had been cleared so we could gather.
Father Raibe Alfred led us in prayer, delivering a message in Innu. His dedication to learning the language over his eight years in Uashat is nothing short of impressive.
The land here, though rocky, is covered in centuries-old caribou moss that’s so thick it feels like a giant sponge. Many of us sat on the ground, and it felt as soft as a pillow beneath us—a perfect place for both prayer and quiet reflection.
The memorial was both healing and heartbreaking. Although the event was centered around Alexandre’s family, many others came to offer their respects. Alexandre was an elder who touched many lives, and it was clear how deeply he would be missed.
People placed small tokens on Alexandre’s cross—a handmade mitten, a rosary fluttering in the wind.
Wapen went over to offer his condolences to Alexandre’s wife, Charlotte, who had requested that we all gather stones from the beach. These stones served as a parting gift from us to Alexandre and also helped keep the cross steady in the strong winds.
The tall ᐛᒋᓇᑭᓐ tree next to the site seemed to sing in the wind as we gathered for a moment of silence.
Charlotte and her daughters, Line and Alexandra, reached out to connect with him one last time.
As people withdrew, I held back, taking in the scene and imagining how time would change this sacred spot. The north both weathers and preserves, but as long as his family remembers, Alexandre’s memory will endure.
Aaron Einish stayed behind with me as the others retreated. He had brought a set of shears to help clear the area and make the space more comfortable for the family. Before we left, Aaron reminded Charlotte, “You’re never alone. We will help you, always.”
As the sun dipped lower, we knew we had to make our way back. The lake is dangerous at night without light, so we all set off in convoy for the southwest, back to the Kachikayach cabins. The temperature dropped quickly, but we were all filled with peace as we headed home.
The sky turned a brilliant gold, and I felt a deep sense of gratitude for having been part of this day.
Back at Derek Jeremy Einish and Annie Vollant Einish’s cabin, they fired up the woodstove, and we warmed ourselves by the fire, sharing jokes and stories before heading back to camp.
On the way, we stopped at the ridge marking the border between Quebec and Labrador. Anaïs had never seen the Milky Way before, so we sat there for a while, spotting constellations, watching shooting stars, and tracking satellites as they passed overhead.
It was late by the time we returned to camp, and I was exhausted. But the party in the big tent was still going strong, so I joined in, dancing until they turned off the lights.
It was a good day.
Fri, Aug 30
Had breakfast with Johnny & Louisa B. Saganash. I’m really loving getting to know more about what Cree communities are like.
Today also marked the Community Walk Against Drugs and Alcohol. We all gathered at the intersection where Kachikayach Road splits between the Innu and Naskapi communities. Melissa Marie Peastitute has been key in organizing this movement; she even printed hoodies for everyone. Ajuash Uniam brought a busload of students to participate, which was amazing to see.
I wasn’t expecting such a large turnout! It was heartening to see so many people standing up against something that has deeply hurt our communities. Chiefs Theresa Chemaganish and Real McKenzie gave moving speeches, and Jean-Sebastien Louise Kapesh shared her own powerful testimony, driving the point home.
I put together a video of the walk, which I’m very very proud of.
Anaïs and I zipped ahead in the side-by-side to capture shots and videos as everyone marched. We ended the walk at the big tent, where more speeches followed—Father Raibe Alfred, both chiefs and William Moffat all shared words of encouragement and solidarity. I’ll post those speeches’ recordings on the Elders gathering page soon. As we walked to the Cultural Site, we stopped at the large sign forbidding drugs and alcohol.
One of the things I love most about the Elders Gathering is all the kids running around. Some of them learned from the elders how to pick blueberries and have been going out on their own to gather them and make “blueberry juice.” It’s such a sweet sight.
I took a quick trip back home in the afternoon for a shower. The weather has been incredible—warm, breezy, and fresh, with no bugs to speak of. I love it.
Back at the camp, communities have been visiting each other to trade and sell traditional wares. I saw a woman who brought a case full of beautiful handmade skirts for the Naskapi women to buy.
Later, I was in the kitchen when Elizabeth Pien held up a piece of bologna and joked, “Look, I made a PacMan!”
I had dinner with the Naskapi Elders tonight, which was a lovely way to wind down.
It seems like the sky is trying to outdo itself every evening. I just try to keep up to capture it.
As I was walking, a group of kids passed by and called out, “Are you the guy taking all the pictures? Take some of us! We’re going to listen to music!”
Soon after, an elderly couple made their way toward the big tent, saying, “We’re going to listen to music, too.”
I met a kid named ᓇᐱᓯᔅ who had made himself a bow. It reminded me so much of my childhood when I spent countless hours exploring the woods with Noah Nabinicaboo, Aaron Einish, James Pien, Donna Einish Mortimer, ᒐᓯᑲ ᓇᑕᐛᐱᔪᐤ, and so many others. Those were some of the best times.
As the sun set, the Big Tent was packed. Several bands played, and everyone danced the night away. It was a joyful, vibrant scene, filled with laughter, music, and movement.
Elders gatherings are for lovers, too. Couples cuddled up everywhere, enjoying the music under the stars. I wished Marilyne could be here to enjoy this.
Laurent Mark absolutely rocked the stage tonight, and bits of Northern Lights peeked through the clouds.
Today was a good day.